tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79026295235111658352024-03-05T10:40:10.201-08:00Gary WornellA travelogue of workshops, meetings, discoveries, happenings and journeys around the world.Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-23565524939182556922012-11-24T03:49:00.000-08:002012-11-24T07:01:48.664-08:00KIAF - 2012 - On practicing the Buddhist principle of non-attachment<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
November 24, 2012 - You can go your own way....<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traffic enjoys complete freedom of expression in Nepal</td></tr>
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The installation of 'Endangered Species' is near completion. Hit by a debilitating bacterial infection on Tuesday shortly after my last posting, energy levels dropped to zero and I was faced with relying on an absolutely brilliant group of volunteers from KIAF to take the work by van to the site and begin putting the thing together. Ignoring the effects of being ill wasn't the wisest thing to do, but I wanted at least to get them started. <br />
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By lunch time everyone was on site, and with only a few minor changes to the structural elements, we had the panels up by early afternoon. While the bacterial infection was doing its best to take over my body, I was out of the zoo past the street vendors into the blazing afternoon sun looking for a chemist in Jawalakhel (the 'hel' part of that word is so apt given how I was feeling).<br />
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My symptoms were among the most common experienced by travellers - especially those who come from exceptionally clean developed nations - and Finland is squeaky clean as nations go - so the chemist was quick to give me what was needed to counteract the resources being systematically drained from my body. <br />
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Back at the zoo, I started drinking the Electrolyte solution by the litre and overseeing the setting up of my work while chattering school children in trim uniforms were herded about by their teachers like sheep from one cage to another. Naturally if you drink you need the toilet, and by some amazing stroke of luck my installation is less than 5 meters from the public lavatory.<br />
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I don't intend to labour the point, but after a few litres of the Electrolyte, I paid my 3 Rupees to the young woman with her baby sitting by the entrance, and braved the assault on the senses inside to relieve myself. Fifteen minutes later I returned and paid another 3 Rupees, and becoming slightly self conscious on my third visit, she looked up at me with a bemused smile which soon morphed into one of pity. I shrugged my shoulders and said something about needing a season ticket to the toilet which clearly didn't register and I resigned myself to the 3 Rupee deal as a small price to pay for such convenience. I was certainly her most loyal customer ever and given that she had a young family to support I was at least doing some good to somebody.<br />
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The medicine wasn't working fast enough, nor was it dealing with the underlying infection and after another night of extreme discomfort I headed off to CIWEC (Private Travel Clinic) on the advice of a Finnish friend following my FaceBook postings. <br />
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There are not may places in the world where you get private treatment for 65 USD including the medication. Here I am two days later feeling pumped and ready to rock. Is this me? A few runs up and down between Mangal's apartment and our own - equivalent of 2 x 8 flights of stairs and I'm feeling confident that I'm back on form.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shop front in Patan</td></tr>
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Yesterday I took a leisurely walk over to the Camera Circle to pick up a faster Internet connection to upload videos. I poped into the Zoo on the way to see what remains to be done with my art work, and make a mental note of what was needed. With camera in hand I took some back alleys and found myself absorbed in the tranquility of the narrow winding lanes. It doesn't take long to engage people on the street. The greeting 'namaste' with the two hands in prayer form at the face is a tricky one with a camera in one hand and a soft box in the other, and I wondered if this was somehow an unacceptable compromise.<br />
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In the evening I realise that in 2 days I've managed to misplace my new cap and lose my sleeveless fleece. The cap was lost on the way to the clinic. The fleece is pretty much a mystery but in this atmosphere of Buddhist temples and burning incense I notice that I am bothered only momentarily before entering a state of non-attachment.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two young boys in a doorway, Patan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three men take a chai break outside a tea shop in Patan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A local laborer in Patan </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young boy, Patan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grandmother, inside a Buddhist Temple, Patan </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grandfather, inside a Buddhist Temple compound, Patan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young boy, Patan</td></tr>
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Today late afternoon is already here and I've been to the zoo to get the last bits of painting done. The Cambodian artist Leang Sekon's work is only half done and I spent a few minutes with him sitting alone on a bench near his plastic Naag, talking about the challenges he was facing given the scale of his piece. Later I took a too-expensive taxi into Kathmandu to see Juha Rouhukoski who was also still in the process of putting his environment together. Artists using electricity face serious challenges as there are several power cuts during the day and they are often during the middle of the day when most visitors will have the opportunity to see their works.<br />
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I've stopped taking taxi's all the way home - preferring to stop in Jawalakhel because 1) I love the name of that place; 2) taxi drivers know exactly where it is, and 3) I get a chance to explore all the tiny lanes and courtyards leading back to Sasto Bazar. Every day turns up a new unexpected opportunity to connect with Nepalese locals and I'm having too much fun handing my lighting equipment over to some young guy standing around so I can concentrate on the subject. Photographer's dream this place.<br />
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Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-17623227292801876182012-11-19T20:05:00.004-08:002012-11-19T20:23:58.818-08:00Nepal - KIAF 2012 - Down to the river (and pray)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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November 20, 2012 - Cinderella's dream</div>
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The last few days have been a mix of wanderings and plans. We have been looking for the plywood panels to mount my 'Endangered Species' work on. Everything here has its own flavour. The plywood is peeling at the edges, locally made screws have faint threads on them and I haven't quite decided what the paint we are going to use smells like.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The banks of the river</td></tr>
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On the wandering front the weather has warmed up and from this lunchtime cafe we can see the tops of the Himalayas through the haze of Kathmandu. Eeva and I have been walking the streets - down to the river - probably the most polluted in the world. The tourists disappear after about 1 km. Soon the smell of the river begins to hang in the air and people walk about with their saris or special surgical type masks covering their mouths. It is a sewer in every sense of the word. Down below trapped against concrete barriers is a solid mass of waste. It was there that I saw 2 policemen throw a plastic bag of rubbish over the side of the bridge and down into the mass of plastic bags below. </div>
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Tapio Reinikainen - an old friend of mine from Finland tells me that some districts of Nepal are now declared 'green' and by that he means they are truly environmentally friendly. Everything is controlled - factory emissions, sewage, rubbish collection and even smoking in the town is not permitted. This seems hard to believe as Kathmandu streets are generally piled with rubbish and refuse of every description. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The microbus driver</td></tr>
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Across the river we meet up with a microbus driver who beacons to me to
come across the field to him. He is friendly and open - with almost no
English - but seems keen to have his photo taken. For this I decide to
bring out my flash, wireless trigger and a 30cm Lastolite soft box; a
bit of an effort, but the brilliant daylight and strong shadows of his
van would have too much contrast. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRnNejW2zKN-vlEDyYArI-FqKwJerms-rMl4ckx6HEM2K7RyXMZKmWjwxNsRcby2gsVoUMpf7j82qsclyGyyTYt6zGPfkdws6fhqCv1wI47T1bUgx6V72QLRrua6Nre4BC1pbH2UfQmc/s640/20121117_nepal_0184.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The microbus driver, young boy and child, Kathmandu</td></tr>
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So in the early afternoon heat I'm there instructing one of the boys
that is with him to be my lighting assistant and for almost half an hour
we engage a few more people in the exercise. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Eeva Wornell iPhone 645Pro</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTOkD9ABziS1KmTcUhZQUvYs-hO5o-aVYgZp6WXLHJGc8A2Fs2V5u5BKw8VxgcU4LwfWKyGmEDMDQJIeFSU-F2RLzSfI0MTBFdo3brIz9fSL8-A2EBCHiuWzM8g6OmSPK6qfktKYS9Ac/s1600/20121117_nepal_0189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpTOkD9ABziS1KmTcUhZQUvYs-hO5o-aVYgZp6WXLHJGc8A2Fs2V5u5BKw8VxgcU4LwfWKyGmEDMDQJIeFSU-F2RLzSfI0MTBFdo3brIz9fSL8-A2EBCHiuWzM8g6OmSPK6qfktKYS9Ac/s640/20121117_nepal_0189.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young Kathmandu boy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKThsYpNanyPSA5ulvnkcFrZVj-DdOc9AxSygSXbXD5biW-yDvvOFBIJVPI8t6aY9BdbCJCvxDd3IxU5__X8L4oeqJmrkyLbNIrq-8k0FxnVBuU7txkchcGK8ycLBEQ-RKvGPJOrrVVg/s1600/20121117_nepal_0200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtKThsYpNanyPSA5ulvnkcFrZVj-DdOc9AxSygSXbXD5biW-yDvvOFBIJVPI8t6aY9BdbCJCvxDd3IxU5__X8L4oeqJmrkyLbNIrq-8k0FxnVBuU7txkchcGK8ycLBEQ-RKvGPJOrrVVg/s640/20121117_nepal_0200.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Man in the street, Kathmandu</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In the end we buy a bottle of Coke from the local store and sit outside in the shade to drink it from the bottle. The shop keeper gives Eeva a freshly 'washed' glass but before she can put her mouth to it I freak out and she stops. Our immune systems just can't cope with the long list of possible illnesses from an untreated water supply. You need to be on your guard all the time. Its just not a walk in the park.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXcjKqJYJ2bN1IxnEkPDfPn_tYai5lhygfhLS4SGaNTf7FdLM_jebEL_wBfeSFWJCqPUxSnQDIv-hwVczy4c2t3FQ0twHTTDdhqsiXQt8Ix0v5RhLfpUxa5EUdHGeEYo5A63xomqdtnaw/s1600/20121117_nepal_0139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXcjKqJYJ2bN1IxnEkPDfPn_tYai5lhygfhLS4SGaNTf7FdLM_jebEL_wBfeSFWJCqPUxSnQDIv-hwVczy4c2t3FQ0twHTTDdhqsiXQt8Ix0v5RhLfpUxa5EUdHGeEYo5A63xomqdtnaw/s640/20121117_nepal_0139.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cinderella Beauty Parlour</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEvHHMvP8AWI4gu72K1SygmbwqVF9rsBafOkigd7-6hbDpfJJldbqIi3iFFa1znQFPSx_Nli6QpUvi96WlxHKljlAlSE-hpRrrrMtCuQNLZzVkTl6xqGd4JXBDyeUb430lX6eAQd-6kI/s1600/20121117_nepal_0145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibEvHHMvP8AWI4gu72K1SygmbwqVF9rsBafOkigd7-6hbDpfJJldbqIi3iFFa1znQFPSx_Nli6QpUvi96WlxHKljlAlSE-hpRrrrMtCuQNLZzVkTl6xqGd4JXBDyeUb430lX6eAQd-6kI/s640/20121117_nepal_0145.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crystal (as in clear) Beauty parlour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtc_yYOUmg20K4vHF2Z44jx7LW5xd3cHT0DqruGbRutZMd9ut1XnYCFh5S0fT3XIcbpXcX7wuliXq8xkWmrf2_p5TIDfZph-u1j0867LvZtMynOi6de2558yVzZLyiP-Kea0XFXshcZEg/s1600/20121117_nepal_0146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtc_yYOUmg20K4vHF2Z44jx7LW5xd3cHT0DqruGbRutZMd9ut1XnYCFh5S0fT3XIcbpXcX7wuliXq8xkWmrf2_p5TIDfZph-u1j0867LvZtMynOi6de2558yVzZLyiP-Kea0XFXshcZEg/s640/20121117_nepal_0146.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crystal Beauty Parlour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We pass the Cinderella beauty parlour - closed today and possibly the dream has long been forgotten. The streets are lined with them - but they are moslty closed and boarded up. Outside in the middle of the quiet road a woman huddles over her little girl and picks lice out of her hair as we walk by. Yesterday I passed a 'Registered Apple reseller' on a main street in Patan - went in and the woman behind her IBM Thinkpad said - oh that - no we don't do Apple - its just the sign'.</div>
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On the way back into Patan, we crossed another small bridge and the fast flowing water was more pungent that earlier. Tapio tells me that the PH of this material can be as high as 3. That means a caustic bath that will burn your skin off.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-FHkJiXnBPn1dBd2-uTc-7IsDEkLjE5wE0UeDDyXjVi2SrMzfG2TyA6HW-TNKkg6X9o-FLW9PnDtBwlNLKO3iF_B6GtigAuwvcTKJl0UrcWzQFu5ng4Vlf_bZp50faKwGnFqm9fHie6Q/s1600/20121117_nepal_0268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-FHkJiXnBPn1dBd2-uTc-7IsDEkLjE5wE0UeDDyXjVi2SrMzfG2TyA6HW-TNKkg6X9o-FLW9PnDtBwlNLKO3iF_B6GtigAuwvcTKJl0UrcWzQFu5ng4Vlf_bZp50faKwGnFqm9fHie6Q/s640/20121117_nepal_0268.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'favela' type dwellings under the high rise apartments under construction.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFiZMMX77uBOMg8xUhttxBPbsTWn7f_IoM4rkd4D83nwGvzEOY-OKggP7pj2oJATVCJK35e019krhD8ELyIyJOZeYl-_FOjlwbWv46YO0Gpn1TsMSViIDPVFXEcPUGJU-Fgj_B662CVxc/s1600/20121117_nepal_0297.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFiZMMX77uBOMg8xUhttxBPbsTWn7f_IoM4rkd4D83nwGvzEOY-OKggP7pj2oJATVCJK35e019krhD8ELyIyJOZeYl-_FOjlwbWv46YO0Gpn1TsMSViIDPVFXEcPUGJU-Fgj_B662CVxc/s640/20121117_nepal_0297.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shanty village at the edge of the river</td></tr>
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High rise apartment buildings painted bright white are being constructed behind the cow sheds where families are living in favela conditions. We cross the wide part of the river again and head back into town for the evening.</div>
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Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-21326875137747746632012-11-17T02:27:00.001-08:002012-11-17T16:55:47.190-08:00Nepal - KIAF 2012 - Bhai Tika<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
November 15, 2012 - Of workshops and brother love<br />
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With the New Year celebration starting to take a firm hold on the community the motorcycle horns were beginning to pale against the crack of the fireworks being let off by children who took extreme pleasure in throwing the things into confined alleyways where the sound naturally amplified against the hard brick walls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwiR2ftwVTTjMiPjmdAK_RsTMhbc3s0xfWgEn7kJolRkI5bCntyLuPvaGJn6JzawNf7EPJEfYnzo49ViGaju1C6XlDQHmxXbi98nBDpLLS3cVWKyo4cNpYYf6d8Q5YvHII9ScLNr8zv8Q/s1600/20121115_nepal_0330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwiR2ftwVTTjMiPjmdAK_RsTMhbc3s0xfWgEn7kJolRkI5bCntyLuPvaGJn6JzawNf7EPJEfYnzo49ViGaju1C6XlDQHmxXbi98nBDpLLS3cVWKyo4cNpYYf6d8Q5YvHII9ScLNr8zv8Q/s640/20121115_nepal_0330.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fireworks master</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Their screams of delight were almost inaudible after the deafening blast, but one could see impish smiles disappear around corners and vanish moments after.<br />
<br />
A few months ago I had put some feelers out to see if there would be any
chance of arranging workshops; photography or print related while I was
in Nepal. It was a busy time for me and it was difficult to put all my
energy into finding a partner to work with so I let go of the idea
for the time being thinking I would do more about it when I got here.
Somewhere along the line something must have registered in someone's
mind because yesterday I got a call from Kailash Shrestha of
<a href="http://www.artudio.org/" target="_blank">www.artudio.org</a> running his own series of workshops for photographers
and a text message from Sharareh of <a href="http://www.artmandu.org/" target="_blank">KIAF</a> and in under an hour we had our
first meeting. So it seems things are actually coming together and we
will meet again on Saturday to firm up the plan. In the mean time I'm
trying to see if I can get a printer arranged through the Epson
dealership locally and some media to print on. <br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIExfhyphenhyphenSrdUHhXetXbx6pxVCTvOb1dulNWllq-5YiyVFEQUs7aHJ2Yrw1-yZrLQjcV0X2IKxL85bb40rlN_ydEICsZ9IPCViaGkxYqVYH15PynSOU7UtOm2yn6KDbdmmRYlRmbPjxmseg/s1600/20121115_nepal_0135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIExfhyphenhyphenSrdUHhXetXbx6pxVCTvOb1dulNWllq-5YiyVFEQUs7aHJ2Yrw1-yZrLQjcV0X2IKxL85bb40rlN_ydEICsZ9IPCViaGkxYqVYH15PynSOU7UtOm2yn6KDbdmmRYlRmbPjxmseg/s640/20121115_nepal_0135.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sangeeta's relatives at the Bhai Tika celebration</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Today it is Bhai Tika celebration - where sisters honour their brothers in a ceremony that seems to be spread out all day depending on who lives where and what family obligations people have. As most families live several generations in the same house it seems to be a logistical piece of cake to get everyone together. KIAF had arranged that we experience the Bhai Tika first hand at the home of Sangeeta Thapa - the Chairperson of the Siddhartha Arts Foundation and we took a 30 minute bus ride the 5km across town to meet the family. </div>
</div>
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As I am the last to leave the minibus, I find myself straggling a bit behind and as the others are invited into Sangeeta's back garden I am beckoned up an external flight of stairs in the neighbouring house by some young boys. Separated from the others I find myself in a rather formal looking terrace room lined with glass windows on the top floor in which the Bhai Tika ceremony is taking place. The room is filled with senior members of the family who look like they have just stepped off the boat in Hawaii with colourful garlands around their necks. I am encouraged to take photographs by these complete strangers as if I was a distant relative requiring evidence of a family I have long forgotten. It is always a surprise to me how unconditionally open and friendly people can be when welcoming visitors from abroad sharing their culture with generosity and flare.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirL1sDeLzFWeWEoQdIRTrS-9_3-kEN_m2XmHnm2pUDxCZeq8sFqG7gvPXuXH_pkKC7kErFcT8TuTufNcJRrd7k1aYE31SP-H_LyosLYE4UiUTTkBI7_QlU5eZ3dxU98L6_4VAIxIlhszY/s1600/20121115_nepal_0176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirL1sDeLzFWeWEoQdIRTrS-9_3-kEN_m2XmHnm2pUDxCZeq8sFqG7gvPXuXH_pkKC7kErFcT8TuTufNcJRrd7k1aYE31SP-H_LyosLYE4UiUTTkBI7_QlU5eZ3dxU98L6_4VAIxIlhszY/s640/20121115_nepal_0176.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bhai Tika in Kathmandu</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLXPaC3AKCth-l6bHPgLDt3NkgwFGY9fZ2RSzHASfk1mg1NMUQ7PpqXPg4qkVhly09Il2fVyLEoJFdcXhixhleuDdzYJ0kQb2cyNUOJD0zx25tW7QsPKdldx2RN4jvR3CnFp4Mf1Xj-L4/s1600/20121115_nepal_0294.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLXPaC3AKCth-l6bHPgLDt3NkgwFGY9fZ2RSzHASfk1mg1NMUQ7PpqXPg4qkVhly09Il2fVyLEoJFdcXhixhleuDdzYJ0kQb2cyNUOJD0zx25tW7QsPKdldx2RN4jvR3CnFp4Mf1Xj-L4/s640/20121115_nepal_0294.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Applying the 7 colours of the rainbow to the forehead</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKrjjYCirF-GKUjTQauHYELi9PQiBtv0QfHRY1An302YPZwKOJyKTaOKW8SwpFOhZiH_hEwuvbxb6dDSES0QyOlLvs7Lmef1zruzNli5-EEo8rer8feDKag8915qcs5gNu0yJ7Tdp5Ng/s1600/20121115_nepal_0182.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTKrjjYCirF-GKUjTQauHYELi9PQiBtv0QfHRY1An302YPZwKOJyKTaOKW8SwpFOhZiH_hEwuvbxb6dDSES0QyOlLvs7Lmef1zruzNli5-EEo8rer8feDKag8915qcs5gNu0yJ7Tdp5Ng/s640/20121115_nepal_0182.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Applying the colours to the forehead</td></tr>
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They continue with their ceremony absorbed in the ritual of applying Tika which seems mostly to consist of touching people's foreheads (with glue and rainbow coloured powders) which the guidebooks go to great lengths to inform is strictly forbidden. There are bowls of fruit and colourful decorations everywhere and is a blend of Easter bunny meets Thanksgiving - and possibly the sweeter side of Halloween. <br />
<br />
Downstairs back with our group I meet the family dogs - separating me from my artist companions - which are closer to Shetland ponies in size and not keen on my iPhone on a stick which I discreetly put down and out of sight so I can pass to the garden. <br />
<br />
After the event in town we are back in Lalitpur, Patan and I soon want to get out in the last hours of light to see what I can find. My objective is portraits and I take only my 50 mm f/1.2 and my iPhone as tools. I will regret this later - regret my laziness and lack of imagination that when you are in an unknown culture you will always be surprised and therefore laziness is an unforgivable trait for a photographer to possess.<br />
<br />
Photographing people, up close, is a commitment. I have a feeling the
reason most people don't like photographers is because they steal.
Taking a genuine interest in people requires that you make contact, and
in order to do this you need time - and plenty of it. You need to find a
way into their lives which has meaning - after all it is a cooperation.
It is something that needs to be done together - so lets make friends
if only for a short time and the language of words is not the only way
we can communicate. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQUx-sjf75Tvk8F-Rzl-zig6RnnSuU_DilhLSTYMnC95zmm-BI6mZB90Mr5jJGUOsY8RdwijRhOG_qGIJk015kPfWGhchBZxwtpZfQZhciprhp3iYSRiU8lA_TUGVsM1cSPhDBYgoieg/s1600/20121115_nepal2_0014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrQUx-sjf75Tvk8F-Rzl-zig6RnnSuU_DilhLSTYMnC95zmm-BI6mZB90Mr5jJGUOsY8RdwijRhOG_qGIJk015kPfWGhchBZxwtpZfQZhciprhp3iYSRiU8lA_TUGVsM1cSPhDBYgoieg/s640/20121115_nepal2_0014.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sister and brother, Patan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCa8R9mpU8quZerEx3F4g_8G7HaPWN_B7_IBseHpCIoaBdX7xfpdi8JGt5KmC3trztu6ccGSF4OBYqC7YpU_T19dLEfP9Ly7d-P-yQCKfjdlHY11g0xJWz1kWINsNV7KhGMQBFnKMWmQ/s1600/20121115_nepal2_0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCa8R9mpU8quZerEx3F4g_8G7HaPWN_B7_IBseHpCIoaBdX7xfpdi8JGt5KmC3trztu6ccGSF4OBYqC7YpU_T19dLEfP9Ly7d-P-yQCKfjdlHY11g0xJWz1kWINsNV7KhGMQBFnKMWmQ/s640/20121115_nepal2_0024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Man outside with garlands and Tika on his forehead</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35m9DTx8cnYeOMw_k8v-rmFUXMx-mRWriBrzUTLzXr4H6Lf84LSGIfjO42PqlvNH18kWfM8wEodfp0lZCwknP_pqwP4berriyXbt6O7LBrAnMzUbOuKr94PdOhgv63XUhFyoUkCy84Go/s1600/20121115_nepal2_0042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35m9DTx8cnYeOMw_k8v-rmFUXMx-mRWriBrzUTLzXr4H6Lf84LSGIfjO42PqlvNH18kWfM8wEodfp0lZCwknP_pqwP4berriyXbt6O7LBrAnMzUbOuKr94PdOhgv63XUhFyoUkCy84Go/s640/20121115_nepal2_0042.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The girl at the cosmetics shop, Patan</td></tr>
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In the street I meet very agreeable people and a new problem starts to present itself as one would expect. Having made friends and got some photos I am invited to take a drink and realise that this could end up as an all evening affair which wouldn't be a bad thing in itself, except for the fact that my impossible objective is to maintain my freedom and engage the community at the same time. Very soon we bump into Shailaja from KIAF and her brother on the way to the family home and Eeva and me are invited to meet the family. Having made an evening commitment with Mangal for 6pm and then 7pm the plan gets completely changed as we become more and more absorbed by the festivities which the following video will testify.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Nm-KizTLduY?rel=0" width="640"></iframe>
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There are few experiences I have had in my life which compare to this in terms of intimacy and openness on the part of people whom I have never met before. The video speaks for itself - a rather longer one than normal - and reduced in size because of the very slow connection we have here I will upload the HD version when I get back to Finland.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAHoDDbBSC5xp9cIwfByYG9zI5vMUSMqWSUe70HiUNx1Ywht-vVkNbBv6-2XNlSmmJ-9IxOMXt8rEKa4NYIXaYyZIPZwtIQXGjCs7aDvsN11BcO0qiuPypc5XFc5vabAt99RcQMKNcQdA/s1600/20121115_nepal2_0230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAHoDDbBSC5xp9cIwfByYG9zI5vMUSMqWSUe70HiUNx1Ywht-vVkNbBv6-2XNlSmmJ-9IxOMXt8rEKa4NYIXaYyZIPZwtIQXGjCs7aDvsN11BcO0qiuPypc5XFc5vabAt99RcQMKNcQdA/s640/20121115_nepal2_0230.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shailaja applies the Tika</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaOA7dOrFIafkofHg1C6tL7kdkDg_onRqVbLXc3HpKH46SxQ9msq_aME5k6jQI4UmLeYUPe63c2ZCbMw10puZihuIHLRG-NCPlLabuio-4oy2KG7aueB0Yrnf_uXFsyRO0K0BMFQnOGo/s1600/20121115_nepal2_0257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaOA7dOrFIafkofHg1C6tL7kdkDg_onRqVbLXc3HpKH46SxQ9msq_aME5k6jQI4UmLeYUPe63c2ZCbMw10puZihuIHLRG-NCPlLabuio-4oy2KG7aueB0Yrnf_uXFsyRO0K0BMFQnOGo/s640/20121115_nepal2_0257.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of Shailaja's uncles</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivXFMe4BIoeAYy-xbA1WeYTRsiIQNMGTzWLMEvGCTlJkCAt6O0M7F0LOsxvKXewZWI-6DiIBNaXAdBBwNWkGwPmskWm7XCXQtuNcw4ogJY48nw0YS0bPC_El21gaJUGNhuA1d9fGsTTc/s1600/20121115_nepal2_0293.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivXFMe4BIoeAYy-xbA1WeYTRsiIQNMGTzWLMEvGCTlJkCAt6O0M7F0LOsxvKXewZWI-6DiIBNaXAdBBwNWkGwPmskWm7XCXQtuNcw4ogJY48nw0YS0bPC_El21gaJUGNhuA1d9fGsTTc/s640/20121115_nepal2_0293.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The men sit in front of candles and mandalas made from coloured powders on the stone floor with candles burning.</td></tr>
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Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-41630930695081911802012-11-16T08:43:00.000-08:002012-11-16T08:43:01.920-08:00Nepal - KIAF 2012 - Patan House<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnduW43ScrLnSJVe8IC24CaTJscZflh9g__9DskGaL9Iiw_8Wi3BPuJvRwpYimgzqE2qOpA4DzJOFy0-JjW1fG-rIdmmMGfXICEzjxsUfvi2pMmZVV-Hji2H9qaRn_sKj3LtTW37N72Sw/s640/20121113_iPhone_0130.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Patan House from the inner courtyard</td></tr>
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November 14, 2012 - Patan House - The taxi ride into Patan ends where the road narrows and its a short walk to Patan House - not a B&B; nor is it a hostel or hotel. (Mangal - our host explains on our arrival that it is a residency and we are now part of the family.) I lift the 23.5 kg of my destroyed luggage out of the back of the taxi now being held together mostly by the coloured belt strap and realise that the only way I'm going to get this safely to our accommodation is lifting it to my head which I manage to do without toppling over (domino effect on these crowded alleys) and trying not to look like I'd spent the previous 24 hours sitting down at 42,000 feet. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii3mGKs9D0-gRfh7eaCk9Zq9F35TxhUu-qYit2aiO1dLSB_EoFtbAYhN7KJcbUE7AdBmEH7hiPwx2nxX148sbxn_yRU0WrzZMF5jWeCB7qVz6L2I4v91PZXSgy9mKEBbAgiXFVHAgvFOg/s640/20121113_nepal_0003.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from our front balcony window</td></tr>
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Mangal shows us our apartment - a cool 70 square meters of completely
empty room except for a very comfortable bed and stylish bathroom. We
are pretty much the first people in here as he has spent the last 5
years building this entire building from the ground up. He takes us up
to the roof terrace from where there is a clear view across the chaotic
architecture of Patan to the white sharp peaks of the Himalayas.</div>
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Back in our room we open our suitcases (or what is left of mine), unpack and
hang everything up on the floor. Ok, so my tripod didn't make it in one
piece either and I tried to imagine exactly what special manoeuvre the
luggage handler needed to do to smash something so deeply imbedded in my
clothing. Stripping the flight tags off the handle I notice that there
is another red one which reads (Heavy!) and decide that this must have
been put on to indicate that you shouldn't lift this piece off the plane
- rather push it over the edge and let gravity take it to the luggage
trolly.<br />
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We have a balcony up here on the 4th floor looking out
into the small square with it's mix of sacred shrines and water
fountains. Up and down the marble stairs a few times I realize that the
entrance to each flat looks identical with no markings on the doors and I
often end up on one of three floors trying to get into the apartment
with only a 30% chance of success. The noise of dogs barking, children
playing and the incessant honking of horns from motorcycles fill the
air. Despite the racket all round, there is no sense of urgency and one
feels that the whole day could pass in this state with people wandering
in and out of my frame with that random sense of direction normally
reserved for the CRT screen savers of the 1990's. <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lGj8_VeOzno" width="640"></iframe>
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Patan is a
mass of small narrow streets with many not wide enough for a car. The
flow of people, animals, and dogs is in both directions and there are
small shops everywhere. We pick up our sim cards, exchange phone numbers
with others from the KIAF team and then head off to buy a few
essentials but we end up coming home with only an assortment of bags
full of irresistible sparkling coloured garlands, and festive
decorations from the market place and proceed to decorate the windows
and balcony with the festive array of New Year's colours.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZzhZqVXG39Qu3Bj0Rvs3Jp9mXIiXebyV-I8S2DYZAn3AWsTxk8guEKENnmbruSxCtIThbRi4HkvzSGveQ3qrr6qaB_CYb-WgeZ4A_4hmiEnNdyo3w_tZfKz8D4oLkHe_DZ0IDs8A6a5Q/s1600/20121114_nepal3_0022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZzhZqVXG39Qu3Bj0Rvs3Jp9mXIiXebyV-I8S2DYZAn3AWsTxk8guEKENnmbruSxCtIThbRi4HkvzSGveQ3qrr6qaB_CYb-WgeZ4A_4hmiEnNdyo3w_tZfKz8D4oLkHe_DZ0IDs8A6a5Q/s640/20121114_nepal3_0022.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doorway decoration, Patan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLkqMMAn2DVwvDInvW9w3Hxl301Km5EAfTWurhQ8BqM8o1HDth-E274BAf9sIauvt1ki3tl5wYQVy162rbyqY6955xPsS_I6oFQJ-CeFVsm9y4hRO2XaH1NDbjcc41rIcXYLA0cgVQzoM/s1600/20121114_nepal3_0025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLkqMMAn2DVwvDInvW9w3Hxl301Km5EAfTWurhQ8BqM8o1HDth-E274BAf9sIauvt1ki3tl5wYQVy162rbyqY6955xPsS_I6oFQJ-CeFVsm9y4hRO2XaH1NDbjcc41rIcXYLA0cgVQzoM/s640/20121114_nepal3_0025.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Year's Festive decoration on the street</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0QuZspcx-PG4Gq_6UQYAB0AiL7ngPdPVoEhaImsexZumIX1jo1wfRYaJwv18niND6wrNAA0PUhgXZTPpBTPfUcT5XZkLb7CdKpJoSGa4Nbrx1zhT2N_HDsE25iK6OA_VCANEdlN8pTB4/s1600/20121114_nepal3_0039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0QuZspcx-PG4Gq_6UQYAB0AiL7ngPdPVoEhaImsexZumIX1jo1wfRYaJwv18niND6wrNAA0PUhgXZTPpBTPfUcT5XZkLb7CdKpJoSGa4Nbrx1zhT2N_HDsE25iK6OA_VCANEdlN8pTB4/s640/20121114_nepal3_0039.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Year's Festive decoration on the street</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkD8H2cL_kZNvZxc3yDJ8qxCwnYhedWekSRi1apjom-bzecXcKQtBGXJmiQ7zZcHh7bPX9jcySvbStggG-Kr093uKmke7Cmfnk6waPW65uCCBqK3KPRkExjNl3ltdGH2-1NvqDIJGpDlk/s1600/20121114_nepal_0053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkD8H2cL_kZNvZxc3yDJ8qxCwnYhedWekSRi1apjom-bzecXcKQtBGXJmiQ7zZcHh7bPX9jcySvbStggG-Kr093uKmke7Cmfnk6waPW65uCCBqK3KPRkExjNl3ltdGH2-1NvqDIJGpDlk/s640/20121114_nepal_0053.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two young girls on a side street of Patan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6oA8rG325LQIapL6u7dvsDdtN5dei-KE14Ap4gzEkm0_lNjbLXlu95SEsNa8c_NC6wFmi6t-cn7L3aOHaQKKjjUBP7yKO3doNYfkN-ndkq9lIMiQgufU4mUNf5AfhGZGfLuPKxUthHA/s1600/20121114_nepal_0058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6oA8rG325LQIapL6u7dvsDdtN5dei-KE14Ap4gzEkm0_lNjbLXlu95SEsNa8c_NC6wFmi6t-cn7L3aOHaQKKjjUBP7yKO3doNYfkN-ndkq9lIMiQgufU4mUNf5AfhGZGfLuPKxUthHA/s640/20121114_nepal_0058.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Electric Avenue - decorated.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs1K-BYdFrjb8Gu-vYDk6Ch6IVzsWnrivDGX4XKD9_mPosYMc8ZA7JTafh1pBziZF0FHKyBXzktIM6WBEPespMCDQEiUJOHOGTY37ECF5pRP_a5j6C2LVj159X1Gddu8ok15rRB4Sxp4Y/s1600/20121114_nepal_0098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs1K-BYdFrjb8Gu-vYDk6Ch6IVzsWnrivDGX4XKD9_mPosYMc8ZA7JTafh1pBziZF0FHKyBXzktIM6WBEPespMCDQEiUJOHOGTY37ECF5pRP_a5j6C2LVj159X1Gddu8ok15rRB4Sxp4Y/s640/20121114_nepal_0098.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mangal's nephew - the airbrush artist</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn7aBnnAjz6DrTYb1jhQimwZ_Bsl6givJ8Oi5pz8hKwjxd1xULcO_EbYVKaE4VHCLxPs_SBy_AtXUqW5P5rZOV3RVpAuiskStaulhla28lC8E9Q3ZkrGf18YbG8YUKPMgx4clw4mwT1mo/s1600/20121114_nepal_0110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn7aBnnAjz6DrTYb1jhQimwZ_Bsl6givJ8Oi5pz8hKwjxd1xULcO_EbYVKaE4VHCLxPs_SBy_AtXUqW5P5rZOV3RVpAuiskStaulhla28lC8E9Q3ZkrGf18YbG8YUKPMgx4clw4mwT1mo/s640/20121114_nepal_0110.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mangal</td></tr>
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Our host Mangal and his wife are a dream. You cannot enter their home without receiving food and drink in copious quantity and their hospitality is as hot and spicy as what is on the table. Vishnu is very open and friendly too, and doesn't seem to follow the guidebook specs of a Nepalese wife. It is clear from the start that she derives real pleasure from providing food for her extended 'family'. Their kitchen is a crossroads of international faces coming and going and after a few days it is quite impossible to keep up with the names. When Mangal said that we are family he apparently meant it, as everyone who enters seems to know them well enough for the regular formalities between landlord and tenant to be completely absent. <br /><br />And so as the sun set over the Himalayas and the cold damp air swept in through the lattice windows of our new home base - I decided to put on as many clothes as possible and head to bed with the idea that I would be less able or willing to put clothes on in the middle of the night if I was freezing than take them off. Lying there wrapped up like an Egyptian mummy listening to the sound of dogs barking and muffled voices I managed to drift off to sleep with my nose exposed to the cold and only a very remote chance that I would wake up fermented in the morning.<br />
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Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-60458599861038347422012-11-15T02:29:00.000-08:002012-11-15T02:31:56.293-08:00Nepal - KIAF - Pain progress<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1daZrEveY7UE00CSuukMokisGfE9dP9nI0rq6l_OtvG9B5hHHlcQE6qzscnH7S-_Cb9TCaxo-nBbsWiWE5w6RKisYkVMN2k4S6hzeDn58h1KHrsk-aNWpXms8ThP9HmVVdwEY76ebEM/s1600/20121112_iPhone_0046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM1daZrEveY7UE00CSuukMokisGfE9dP9nI0rq6l_OtvG9B5hHHlcQE6qzscnH7S-_Cb9TCaxo-nBbsWiWE5w6RKisYkVMN2k4S6hzeDn58h1KHrsk-aNWpXms8ThP9HmVVdwEY76ebEM/s640/20121112_iPhone_0046.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doha International Airport - Qatar</td></tr>
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It is the norm rather than the exception. I need to be at an airport in plenty of time for screw-ups - my own and other people's. Remember my last hop over to Tanzania when the guy at the Finnair checkin desk decided not to allow me to board because I didn't have an onward bus ticket from Nairobi to Arusha? <br />
<br />
That little hiccup got resolved (<a href="http://tanzaniaworkshops2012.blogspot.com/2012/02/in-and-out-of-transit.html" target="_blank">read about it here</a>) with a clear 5 minutes before the checkin desk closed as my heart that was trying to escape the confines of my rib cage . On this flight though to Kathmandu I had poured over the documentation a dozen times looking for the hidden catch - didn't find any - and enjoyed our ride out to Vantaa with Philippe, Tuula, and Jooel with hours to spare and that feeling of relaxed tension that a frog on a lily pad has waiting for a fly to pass by.<br />
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I didn't expect the 'These tickets aren't valid' to be the first sentence uttered by the woman at checkin. The record locator at the self service box had suggested we seek assistance - and as if that wasn't a sign of things to come I really couldn't see where the problem was.<br />
<br />
I took the paper back from the girl - scoured the details - payment summary - payment date - confirmation of payment - detailed itinerary - and finally handed it back. This is not my problem - I thought to myself. Eeva started in on her own creative interpretation of where the problem could have occurred - and as these ideas seemed to be picked at random from remote places in her head I said nothing. There was nothing to say. If there was a glitch - it wasn't a glitch I was going to assume ownership of, and I waited for the girl behind the desk to solve it.<br />
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Glitch solved itself - at least when the problem occurs in an airline booking system one can assume that the words 'These tickets aren't valid' are soon forgotten and one doesn't need to rub salt into the wound. I'm not quite sure what would have happened if I had taken the woman's word for it and said - 'Well these things happen - so lets book and pay for some new ones shall we?'<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOe1V90CFGV2tHnaIbg2SSdvCztuoXAxxmDDG7_X413bLcFNHJ_Smv9w-RZPVAqntTRBFUc-ZnbxDTQZ0sZuCHMF_XK7__p5ThSkrpCt9NVU-YXh7L6ph7phM5RZqslO6oxW7uLxbjyWQ/s1600/20121113_iPhone_0081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOe1V90CFGV2tHnaIbg2SSdvCztuoXAxxmDDG7_X413bLcFNHJ_Smv9w-RZPVAqntTRBFUc-ZnbxDTQZ0sZuCHMF_XK7__p5ThSkrpCt9NVU-YXh7L6ph7phM5RZqslO6oxW7uLxbjyWQ/s640/20121113_iPhone_0081.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iran</td></tr>
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Issued with valid boarding passes and the luggage checked through to Kathmandu we took a coffee with the Gueissaz's and boarded the plane.<br />
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Long haul flights are special. They require that you stay awake for long periods of time, find your way through airport mazes and security checks and indulge in sporadic snacking. Its fun of course; people watching, clock watching, luxury car watching, exploring public toilets and of course the main reason for airports being there in the first place - the Duty Free boutiques. It always amazes me how people end up buying stuff at these places as they seem to be Duty Inflated-beyond-belief-prices shops. Do people completely abandon their sense of thrift when they stroll through these temples of commerce - or is there that slight feeling that flying always feels like a holiday and therefore normal behaviour doesn't apply?<br />
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I'm usually resembling my usual self by the time the plane has started taxiing. I love the feeling that there is no turning back - and perhaps I should do more things in life which demand the 'no turning back option'.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtv1V8h_6MSXnL6IA47kSmDy6Gzb7eIVXzMOmj_P0MytXPoQ9RRXuILnm87seG1JuZQ7UiiW4ZHoYEugZSB6wckJ7W2bzwapumHzwEBhTocSITltUAXum-v6F2DqqhRKauY5Dsi4lRGHc/s1600/20121112_iPhone_0041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtv1V8h_6MSXnL6IA47kSmDy6Gzb7eIVXzMOmj_P0MytXPoQ9RRXuILnm87seG1JuZQ7UiiW4ZHoYEugZSB6wckJ7W2bzwapumHzwEBhTocSITltUAXum-v6F2DqqhRKauY5Dsi4lRGHc/s640/20121112_iPhone_0041.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No pain - no gain.... Qatar Airways</td></tr>
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We departed on Monday 12th of November and arrived around noon on the 13th. Kathmandu is everything I expected and more; the noise, the people, the pollution, the gentle feeling of local communities, and of course the visual ambiance which is a mix of extremely drab and very colourfull. Off the plane and through the luggage collection I discover my slightly smashed suitcase - wheel broken and the side of the case ripped open - and inevitably my Giotto tripod also invalided through rough treatment. Well - it could always have been worse. Arriving safe and sound in body and mind having been hurled through space at speed is always worth noting as something of a miracle and in the days to come there will be plenty more opportunities to marvel at just how much of a cultural leap we have taken.<br />
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Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-36159895457241991372012-11-11T03:23:00.000-08:002012-11-11T03:27:44.142-08:00Nepal - KIAF - From Kuhmo to Kathmandu<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old piano - Kuhmo, Finland 2011</td></tr>
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Some time in the summer of 2011 way up in the middle of Finland I started working on an artwork that was a bit of new direction for me. Using my iPhone camera was rapidly becoming my favorite way to work spontaneously. It had all the advantages of a small compact camera, except it was smaller and more compact!<br />
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My wife is a flea market junkie. I am not. I tolerate them when we are together, and can even engage in 'people watching' when the mass of seemingly unrelated contents of the tables become too much to focus on.<br />
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But on that bright and sunny summer's day in that remote Finnish music festival town of Kuhmo I found myself with a new passion - and a new obsession.<br />
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There are of course several flea markets scattered around every Finnish town and village and if you have the 'nose' then finding them isn't a problem. In this particular one I was drawn into a blue room, radiant with the penetrating summer sun and discovered several trays filled with children's toys.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9B64m1WnOzivpTRS0JLpii9e7NRTqoKXQHRXD9-fXgHe8ecxZtf8-Q_u-OCjvAxzHzC09J7gytMsT9FrMFvTsLfP3E_HSQrhPpr4rf6JAMp0OTi9sAZOmvC7CSohPw7IJOd-24z_t_tM/s1600/IMG_2386-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9B64m1WnOzivpTRS0JLpii9e7NRTqoKXQHRXD9-fXgHe8ecxZtf8-Q_u-OCjvAxzHzC09J7gytMsT9FrMFvTsLfP3E_HSQrhPpr4rf6JAMp0OTi9sAZOmvC7CSohPw7IJOd-24z_t_tM/s640/IMG_2386-Edit.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portrait of an Amazon Arrow Frog - Kuhmo - Finland 2011</td></tr>
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And so I started taking portraits - untangling the mess of jumbled up animals, dusting them off, finding a small corner of a shelf or tray away from the glaring light and finding their 'best side' for a shot. It wasn't long before the frustrations of a low battery put an end to the session and I was off to a local cafe - but the seed for my work was sewn that sunny afternoon between those delightful airy chamber music concerts, and for several months I found myself wandering through dozens of these flea markets in search of abandoned toys.<br />
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In all the process took about 5 months, but the idea for the name 'Endangered Species' came sometime during those dark autumn days. And then the notice for submissions to the 2nd Kathmandu International Art Festival (KIAF) came to my postbox - and even before the work was finished I had put in the application to take part in this exciting collaboration with artists from all over the world.<br />
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And so tomorrow the flea market junkie and I depart for Kathmandu to take part in this great festival on the theme 'Earth, Body, Mind' and explore as much of Nepal as time permits. 'Endangered Species' has already arrived - several weeks ago after debuting with Epson Europe at Photokina in Köln.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhOf1IxObY0gNJcCA_PP2uShj5C2TpzaLA326bU8vG98TikS55abWJGEP13-UKmikj6obZ-08kbX3bNg5QB-IvzmMDVBVoFUlpZ6sGLpIUL2LVkdHyon61nWC-O9hd_wuwCGoPNEYv_U/s1600/IMG_8444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhOf1IxObY0gNJcCA_PP2uShj5C2TpzaLA326bU8vG98TikS55abWJGEP13-UKmikj6obZ-08kbX3bNg5QB-IvzmMDVBVoFUlpZ6sGLpIUL2LVkdHyon61nWC-O9hd_wuwCGoPNEYv_U/s640/IMG_8444.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Endangered Species' at Epson - Photokina 2012</td></tr>
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Just how I decided to put this thing together I'll tell a bit later. For now its still time to pack a few things and print some small gifts. Its getting dark here in Finland and as I write this the days are still getting shorter and the snow can't make up its mind whether to stay or not.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR-q1MUTEIlzdfx3CjKKd1mveuzP7c9G9jEJbGs_v3cKFuPj0jnciPhWhSVLliAJuZehT-XHsq8mh-ym45dTOVcL8X1EmMCdaH6Uyfd1OpEMM711t9U9kPnPZbkK0IDfqv51vswzqwGUM/s1600/Screen-Shot-2012-11-11-at-1.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR-q1MUTEIlzdfx3CjKKd1mveuzP7c9G9jEJbGs_v3cKFuPj0jnciPhWhSVLliAJuZehT-XHsq8mh-ym45dTOVcL8X1EmMCdaH6Uyfd1OpEMM711t9U9kPnPZbkK0IDfqv51vswzqwGUM/s640/Screen-Shot-2012-11-11-at-1.11.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Map of Nepal</td></tr>
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Tomorrow we are on the move - a short hop to Sweden, then Qatar and on to Kathmandu. See you next in the foothills of the Himalayas!<br />
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Check out the web pages of KIAF - <a href="http://www.artmandu.org/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">2nd Kathmandu International Art Festival 2012</a> <br />
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Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-21863472183643205592012-08-12T10:14:00.000-07:002012-08-12T11:11:56.526-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - Wind Tunnel Wanderings<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
20.07.2012 - Afternoon. Later in the morning the wind died down enough for us to consider our next move. There were not many choices left as we had somehow never seriously considered the possibility of covering such a small area. We were still about 15k away from where we had expected to start our journey several days ago and had never even crossed the border into Finland. At this rate our scheduled hike would have taken a month to complete - not a week at any stretch of the imagination - so what were we thinking back in the deep southern town of Riihimäki sipping cups of coffee and pouring over the map like it was a Sunday afternoon walk in the park?<br />
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Stuart had remembered the long range weather forecast he had heard at the hotel in Kilpisjärvi on Tuesday, which was to expect the weather to deteriorate towards the weekend. It was now the weekend, and if we hadn't already experienced surprises with the weather since we had arrived here, then what lay ahead of us was not good news.<br />
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In these situations one discards instantly, and with the discipline of a Mahayana Buddhist monk in deep meditation, any thought entering one's head that the situation couldn't get much worse than it already was, so as not to tempt fate. One also hopes that any god who has her ear trained in on the thoughts of hikers this far north didn't hear a peep. It was getting colder by the minute, and the thought of a possible snowfall wasn't out of the question.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJS1MUAOCH8nBFqa5Y4kc2lakRH8AFG-sJAudnseJUPrYutgxJvXNRKZS0_4dy-2qKzwB-5jtYaOx6xT0CqBs6_vTprvPxWM18RChkPfx2VMjJ89WF_HKo7HTzAQ_L1mDaHt7Z1Gmi7U/s1600/20120720_lapland_0028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJS1MUAOCH8nBFqa5Y4kc2lakRH8AFG-sJAudnseJUPrYutgxJvXNRKZS0_4dy-2qKzwB-5jtYaOx6xT0CqBs6_vTprvPxWM18RChkPfx2VMjJ89WF_HKo7HTzAQ_L1mDaHt7Z1Gmi7U/s640/20120720_lapland_0028.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The snow never melts completely on these valley slopes.</td></tr>
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So we decided to head back in the general direction of our starting point - 2 days walk away in the hope that we would arrive before the prophecy came true. We packed our things once again, and started out up the valley. The weather stayed pretty stable, with patches of fog creeping down from the highlands and obscuring the view. It seemed at times that the macro world beneath our feet was the only thing to look at for now and I found no reason to remove my camera from the pack during most of the afternoon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidJEcjUHT_OTYu40psyWMWWQMsHbHZC4AkktZfQHgLYXaC3ekMDD21rBaU2MjV6ENMCxvLZYS32sVw8YjNmzbjBuCmqpztAgQc6TAD2DgmUuEVXua_wjhWJ4TqxNWUfc3tFThVCKI-P0Q/s1600/20120720_lapland_0091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidJEcjUHT_OTYu40psyWMWWQMsHbHZC4AkktZfQHgLYXaC3ekMDD21rBaU2MjV6ENMCxvLZYS32sVw8YjNmzbjBuCmqpztAgQc6TAD2DgmUuEVXua_wjhWJ4TqxNWUfc3tFThVCKI-P0Q/s640/20120720_lapland_0091.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrapped stone</td></tr>
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The Suntrica SolarStrap #4 continued to feed much needed power into my iPhone for yet another day of energy; the easiest device to pull from my jacket pocket at a moments notice and record the brief pauses in our slow but steady move north. In a few hours we had passed the point where just a few days earlier we had cut across and up into the hills of Norwegian Halti. We hunted for a while on the opposite bank of the river for a sheltered flat piece of land away from the driving wind that was cutting down the valley from the north cold and raw against the skin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRL0QhKuAfpDciCu856587NPuoUitxF7ln2xY_UueZDXBw4NlfpcX8MSUP1tlPxLaWfKl0VB8D9w2b_Uu1KQMOzo9ThaBWz4vOOjPTdjoGJZ5BsotcIjIjIFM1r8WRZ99-8P90QHoTrdA/s1600/20120720_lapland_0110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRL0QhKuAfpDciCu856587NPuoUitxF7ln2xY_UueZDXBw4NlfpcX8MSUP1tlPxLaWfKl0VB8D9w2b_Uu1KQMOzo9ThaBWz4vOOjPTdjoGJZ5BsotcIjIjIFM1r8WRZ99-8P90QHoTrdA/s640/20120720_lapland_0110.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow bridge</td></tr>
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I noticed some bear feces - somehow jumped to the conclusion having never seen them before - and realized that if this really was what I thought it was then a powerful north wind and the rushing sound of water in the stream was probably the most unhelpful condition we could have. Bears are notoriously shy in Finland and are a very rare sight unless you hang animal carcases out on a tree to tempt them. Their sense of smell is phenomenal. Sakari, with more than 30 excursions to these parts under his belt over the years wasn't the slightest bit worried, but the idea of a bear captured both Stuart's and my imagination and somehow coloured our thoughts for the rest of the day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtiChZVgvPNWv0HJGEVNb5WhSG4yhkV9d_OJBzNwxnnnfoyfnKcnhY7Ra8thyoal5n4CCAcUx-rWq-f_EePlej5HqBFomajkzSiJlR0kEeEZoFceyZBqX5hVxENfl1WndfV-oN6rlnyo/s1600/20120720_lapland_0041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqtiChZVgvPNWv0HJGEVNb5WhSG4yhkV9d_OJBzNwxnnnfoyfnKcnhY7Ra8thyoal5n4CCAcUx-rWq-f_EePlej5HqBFomajkzSiJlR0kEeEZoFceyZBqX5hVxENfl1WndfV-oN6rlnyo/s640/20120720_lapland_0041.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.</td></tr>
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We passed a waterfall about a kilometer from where we eventually decided to camp, and I promised myself I would come back later to take some shots. In the end I settled for something nearer, partly because of the bear, and partly because I was too tired to carry camera and tripod up over the hills again. I didn't have much energy left at this point and knew that by tomorrow afternoon this whole experience would start to fade into a memory. I was hungry to see more and went down into the river bed for a couple of hours once again in my element before heading back to the camp for something to eat and bed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirQId5wkCwUSgEiZFgYQgvzbMtpRv3uECRnAVdGknb_wCrVnpLcLoXnoEyx42Tq0NVGhTAmqeYzG8yjxCX4PnGfSMODsG9NWAW581CDkwAQ3hb9Iz7Ak3qrw_0yEnsvcOUHx6iyLFKrO8/s1600/20120720_lapland_0056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirQId5wkCwUSgEiZFgYQgvzbMtpRv3uECRnAVdGknb_wCrVnpLcLoXnoEyx42Tq0NVGhTAmqeYzG8yjxCX4PnGfSMODsG9NWAW581CDkwAQ3hb9Iz7Ak3qrw_0yEnsvcOUHx6iyLFKrO8/s640/20120720_lapland_0056.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The valley looking north - our journey home.</td></tr>
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</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-12115350914649078002012-08-12T02:16:00.000-07:002012-08-12T08:20:10.720-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - Talking of the Weather<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
20.07.2012 - Morning - It wasn't raining. During the night the wind began to howl and for a while it felt like we would become airborne. The first time I saw this tent at the Riihimäen Erämessut, it was being put up in hurricane conditions - a huge fan just a meter from the back end and the guy doing the demonstration was barely able to stand. I knew it would take the wind, but couldn't figure out why the inner tent was dancing about wildly - at least the reason for that only became clear when we were packing up.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still standing - notice the back flap of the tent open to the wind!</td></tr>
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At some point in the morning, no matter how blustery the wind was we decided to get up and make some breakfast. Jetboils have warnings not to light them inside the tent and of course we did as they never would have ignited otherwise. A few scary moments with the flame on startup - but otherwise fine if you sit there and hold it steady. A watched kettle never boils - so the saying goes - but a watched Jetboil does and in less than 2 minutes. </div>
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After breakfast I wandered off to find some sheltered rocks in the valley to go to the toilet, and having found the perfect seat I gazed out across the windswept fell in that open minded manner that one develops in these moments of private enterprise. Extreme adventure holidays have become all the rage these days - I thought to myself - adding that compared to those impossible looking video clips of daredevil adventurers base jumping off the cliffs of Norwegian fiords, or wildly flapping wing suits plummeting like human jets down from mountain tops, our casual little hike across a few jumbled up rocks in Lapland was rather tame. Still, it was the ultimate experience if you want to be alone with nature - far off the beaten track and at one with the forces of the vast universe.</div>
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I was just thinking about the steps we had taken across land that few hikers had ever ventured into when I noticed in the far distance what appeared to be a couple of reindeer walking with sticks. Suddenly my moment of peace - those moments badly needed in the wilderness - was rudely interrupted by a vision - a mirage from the silver screen - two people walking toward me, as if their planned route was directly along the valley to my toilet. Had they spotted me? Would they see me pull my trousers up? Did they have binoculars? How could I casually extract myself from this place without giving myself and my purpose away?</div>
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I managed to perform my ablutions and fumbled out of my post glacial potty pretending to study the rocks as I headed back to the tent - excited that we were about to receive guests - the first human beings we had seen in - well - 4 days and could hardly believe my own enthusiasm. Was it because they probably had a better map than we and might benefit therefore by a consensus of directional opinion? Was it because we could discuss this crazy weather - like the English do when they first meet complete strangers? Or was it because I had a desperate need to welcome people into my home - no matter whether it was a solid wooden house on granite blocks or a precariously flapping tent? </div>
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In any case I rushed across the little streams shouting to Stuart above the white noise of the wind to put the kettle on in that overly excited way that socially deprived people who live in the countryside do when they are faced with the possibility of actual conversation. I turned and watched them slowly walking towards us, knowing that the liter of water would be boiled in time for their arrival. They had certainly come from the same place we had been the day before - a difficult climb down the hills in much the same conditions we had encountered. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The visitors we nearly had.</td></tr>
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They did not stop. They barely raised a walking stick in acknowledgement as they hugged the side of the valley not 50 meters from our tent and proceeded to climb the snowy slope. I stood there in some disbelief - wondering as I do in cultures where habits are so different from my own - what on earth had given me the impression that they would? I am so Canadian. I am so English. I thought for a moment this must be a Finnish thing - you know - that privacy value that Finns hold so sacred. They did not stop to say hello - because they respected our privacy. Ok - I can accept that. Then someone said - they must be Norwegian! </div>
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<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-89343699730840460192012-08-07T23:08:00.003-07:002012-08-08T21:56:24.783-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - On the Rocks<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
19.07.2012 Day 3 - Afternoon. With the fog well established and only an occasional hint of clearing Stuart and I decided to let Sakari sleep as long as possible to shake off his cough. I ventured out for a while to check down the valley where the best place to cross the river would be between these two larger lakes. Visibility was still pretty bad, but I made my way as close to the shore as possible walking much of the time on not terribly thick compacted snow which occasionally gave way between the rocks underfoot and sent me plunging down into the wet.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ah - looks a bit like Stuart out for a stroll.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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With a clear river and lakes to follow it seemed to me that the fog need not hold us up for a full day, and we could at least make an effort to get to a lower altitude where the visibility might improve. A three to four kilometer hike should take us down to a broad valley and although we didn't really know whether the river was fordable or not, by crossing this far upstream we stood a better chance of being on the right side of the valley if we decided in the next day or so to head home.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari and Stuart preparing food</td></tr>
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After a good hot lunch with coffee and a swig of Rum - essential survival kit on any expedition - I packed our tent, stuffed everything into my Osprey, and we headed off down the valley. I packed the camera away anticipating what lay ahead; kept my eyes focused on the rocks which by now had a greasy slippery surface ready to send you flying into the abyss with that extra 20k of propulsion afforded by a top heavy back pack.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart writing... poetry or a pragmatic plan of action?</td></tr>
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Its great to travel with a team of three. To begin with you have a simple democratic decision making number from which to determine your fate. Secondly, when one of the team has reservations about a planned route, the other two can provide convincing reasons why it might be the best option. Stuart hadn't flinched from the beginning of the car journey right through to this point, and in fact had provided the means to fix the radiator and get us into a position to start our hike in the first place. He always seemed to have clear thoughts, good sound reasons to support the route, and from the beginning I felt he was better qualified than I was.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coffee break in the clear</td></tr>
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As we crossed the river and began walking south, the rush of white water sank steeply away to the valley below and we were faced with either scrambling along an impassable cliff in the fog on our side of the valley or fording a frantic torrent bellow to get to a snow covered field of rocks - all of which could prove to be our undoing and for a brief moment it looked like we might be faced with retracing our steps back to where we started. Sakari had the idea to head up into the fog over the hill and see if we couldn't get an easier passage down into the valley.<br />
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Looking down into the pounding action below it all looked a very dramatic and exciting landscape to enter until I imagined myself as another one of those rocks with the water rushing over me and so that option quickly evaporated. Looking over at the cliff on this side of the valley gave me a similar rush of adrenalin and I got that special little cold shiver that I last experienced at <span class="Text" id="Content_Asset_3_CE_2">Tête Rousse staring up at the </span><span class="Text" id="Content_Asset_3_CE_2">Grand Couloir</span><span class="Text" id="Content_Asset_3_CE_2"> </span>on Mont Blanc a few years ago.<br />
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Stuart has some experience flying, has found himself in situations where fog is the most terrifying natural weather system you can encounter, and resisted Sakari's suggestion of going over the hill in the thickening fog until Sakari commented on the ' somehow across the river' option and in very easy to understand English said simply - 'It can't be done.' <br />
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So we started out over the hill, a fairly steep climb that took us scrambling up and into the fog away from the cliff edge by a comfortable margin and in less than half an hour as Stuart and I climbed over the hill we could see Sakari a comfortable distance ahead descending into the broad valley below towards the place where we would spend our next night.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Open valley and campsite for the night</td></tr>
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Beneath my feet the rocks had changed. They seemed to take on more geometric shapes - thrown into random patterns or split and slightly rearranged and covered in colourful lichen. I stopped and took off my pack as the others walked on toward the campsite. Out came the 5D mkII and I began to look through the camera - framing the shapes into their own complete compositions - totally absorbed by the moment for almost an hour.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock and lichen I</td></tr>
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On each hike I have made to Lapland, there has always been a moment like this. It is somehow intimate - away from the people I'm traveling with, when I am no longer thinking of the heavy weight on my back, or the weather, or the distance to walk. I am no longer tired, no longer hungry or thirsty, and with my camera I find myself absorbed and unable to move, except through the lens.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock and lichen II</td></tr>
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The moment comes without expectations, and in that moment all the automatic responses of composition, exposure and depth of field are so second nature that I find my equilibrium. It is as if I am noticing something that only I can see.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock and lichen III</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock and lichen IV</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock and lichen V</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAI_L0cYz5iar5sYGb9qFxO48DlaM84YWPYX07SgPq7LlG0V3OgJcAWw9jCWhjBybDGcQxbX5oPpPqbK5-ICnCEk-jTg5YHyHy4RErV6Od07yefOeZgQGzHXUuZMPZUilwGSKOEBens0/s1600/20120719_lapland_0183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAI_L0cYz5iar5sYGb9qFxO48DlaM84YWPYX07SgPq7LlG0V3OgJcAWw9jCWhjBybDGcQxbX5oPpPqbK5-ICnCEk-jTg5YHyHy4RErV6Od07yefOeZgQGzHXUuZMPZUilwGSKOEBens0/s640/20120719_lapland_0183.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock and lichen VI</td></tr>
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We settled here for the rest of the day, ate well, slept a little and talked. The broad open valley was a complete contrast to the camp of the night before. At this point our hiking options were once again open and at out present rate of walking we had about 16 hours to get back to the car. But that decision would wait until tomorrow.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="392" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/dJKyTJ6emAs" width="640"></iframe>
</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-10749295961278881492012-08-07T03:22:00.000-07:002012-08-07T09:59:43.545-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - The Mists of Time<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
19.07.2012 - Day 3 - Morning. You could feel the drop in temperature during the night. The pounding rain and wind kept me awake with only brief periods of sleep. It doesn't get dark of course so I could peek outside and check the visibility which varied from 50 meters to 10 meters each hour. Sakari had developed a serious chest cough during the night and Stuart and I were thinking that he might try to push on in the morning rather than getting the rest he badly needed. With the fog closing in it seemed unlikely we would get very far.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfpgMnjFo9jLGmH2cVS7WAasOI2EOis4c0aPubpuSF3vmYkQAqZHYTCMaqDJc7TlQUwsfLS1QSIvKH-DnMM255lfd2jGjdADYOAPXGdiVSyQulubqcK6onujdx_jS9LMzqOlKP51llr9Y/s1600/20120719_iPhone_0162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfpgMnjFo9jLGmH2cVS7WAasOI2EOis4c0aPubpuSF3vmYkQAqZHYTCMaqDJc7TlQUwsfLS1QSIvKH-DnMM255lfd2jGjdADYOAPXGdiVSyQulubqcK6onujdx_jS9LMzqOlKP51llr9Y/s640/20120719_iPhone_0162.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">6am Day 3</td></tr>
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Sakari and I had discussed the various scenarios of a 3 man team hiking in the wilderness. Accidents can happen to anyone, and opportunity usually favors the well prepared. In good weather you can manage all kinds of small risks traversing rivers, climbing hills, and pushing your physical stamina to a comfortable limit. But when the weather deteriorates, and especially visibility you might as well stay put.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBp1ES98fpaChDTlNpEHm_HP05zfpZTn_rTqbGdxCmGvroPgQT3TTMf8faPbMtV87QOM3idhO_Z8ZEsr1umWWpwuWsYWY86f2_JMGQeGSSFbMGSzfTZ3veYM-VD9PZjE4NLQqQMhrhrd8/s1600/20120719_lapland_0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBp1ES98fpaChDTlNpEHm_HP05zfpZTn_rTqbGdxCmGvroPgQT3TTMf8faPbMtV87QOM3idhO_Z8ZEsr1umWWpwuWsYWY86f2_JMGQeGSSFbMGSzfTZ3veYM-VD9PZjE4NLQqQMhrhrd8/s640/20120719_lapland_0002.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart comes up from the lake during a brief moment when the fog partially lifted.</td></tr>
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Staying put is a hard one for me. It take more discipline to keep me still than it does to get me into action. The hills surrounding us seemed to be saying something. They covered us in fog - here about 1000 meters or more up in the hills of Halti - and said 'You just wait here for a while. You must listen to us.'<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYighM_woAULwi_FN-UQnICxKNCIGZsvcSySpr_TGhMOIvDWuVyTBnzCOED-77i04jTlhoeTAv9tOfi88WuLsRZNCzFxaXYbiYuUAxRnMrxC9_VB0o-PSQQooB_p4NOptFsfv02GUNxGw/s1600/20120719_lapland_0029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYighM_woAULwi_FN-UQnICxKNCIGZsvcSySpr_TGhMOIvDWuVyTBnzCOED-77i04jTlhoeTAv9tOfi88WuLsRZNCzFxaXYbiYuUAxRnMrxC9_VB0o-PSQQooB_p4NOptFsfv02GUNxGw/s640/20120719_lapland_0029.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very clean cut boulder - so how exactly, and when...?</td></tr>
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But that is precisely why we came here. We came to listen to the voice of nature, to pick our way through this broken world of stone and pounded earth. We came to become smaller in this vast landscape - to feel something, to turn away from the biting wind (ok well maybe not biting) and to immerse ourselves in the uncompromising power of nature. And so we did.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmEC-9Gt1mcf2uq801eG6cR_EstiIZJ-lFXj9bY6Oeq7ldxtJm3jQSeapgCRyXUkWfUadkEPnUD0PFNXbvTNjFi5d2btr2iLQJZC06EDFzKfRKxt2RbD3XVv-tTslyoVeHr64MrmdLy2s/s1600/20120719_lapland_0013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmEC-9Gt1mcf2uq801eG6cR_EstiIZJ-lFXj9bY6Oeq7ldxtJm3jQSeapgCRyXUkWfUadkEPnUD0PFNXbvTNjFi5d2btr2iLQJZC06EDFzKfRKxt2RbD3XVv-tTslyoVeHr64MrmdLy2s/s640/20120719_lapland_0013.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SolarStrap doing its best to charge my iPhone</td></tr>
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The cold had drained quite a bit of power from my phone overnight. I had forgotten to turn it off and in the morning it showed a 1% charge. To the rescue - Suntrica Solarstrap #2. The four flashing green LEDs indicated that since I left Riihimäki on 16.07 - 4 days earlier - the charge had remained full and I got the 97% charge fully downloaded to the phone battery in under an hour. So here is the video of that cramped, in the tent, cold and a little damp update on the start of Day 3.<br />
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For reasons that I would like to keep between me and my therapist, I had brought a Canon Speedlight flash unit with me and some Yong Nuo wireless transceivers. Was I hoping to recreate a little studio lighting session up here in the hills? Was I so focused on taking portraits that even a hike in the wilderness couldn't keep me from having a go miles from anywhere? Who knows. The thing is though that if I have to stay put, I can still have a bit of fun in an environment rather difficult to replicate at home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3Eu3kjwaRTN05koH_D1dSfCG5IxqPuFLHoqEhdmR5VKAvcEWasxg4N0PoQnsa615W-6pkme4kdrR7_mFpSJE3LoQfP4oAhNc_TyXXhEN82rgY9BwF5CXGhe2nnp72tBD_e2nJu50P28/s1600/20120719_lapland_0070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3Eu3kjwaRTN05koH_D1dSfCG5IxqPuFLHoqEhdmR5VKAvcEWasxg4N0PoQnsa615W-6pkme4kdrR7_mFpSJE3LoQfP4oAhNc_TyXXhEN82rgY9BwF5CXGhe2nnp72tBD_e2nJu50P28/s640/20120719_lapland_0070.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart in one of those famous explorer shots that appears in the history books 200 years from now.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fMqQhfi0dTDnHKqBwLP-FridztJJ-RPPiC5d51Qb-2xvPHCGkuXGHO_S8KeHeM9S9LJvFPij03atBAMX-VySkDNUplGKND_0vTWvIbzqVs7zSF_2ao9s6z1VCoKiIwGP5ZhWC47CEPE/s1600/20120719_lapland_0083.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4fMqQhfi0dTDnHKqBwLP-FridztJJ-RPPiC5d51Qb-2xvPHCGkuXGHO_S8KeHeM9S9LJvFPij03atBAMX-VySkDNUplGKND_0vTWvIbzqVs7zSF_2ao9s6z1VCoKiIwGP5ZhWC47CEPE/s640/20120719_lapland_0083.jpg" width="510" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari with his 75 year old digital Nikon - the intrepid photographer recorded for posterity</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnV50OaqSTZThW5E42XFntIJUt2Zu8mDrCDKu7e5XqjJU4fFoVYi-SGHv7aNxERMBA1RkSkjr8SXR-1a9-T-zbxzAj3XvZ8um-ZxRHpobH3qvavcZTIvvRo0y8Xc7ZTOxfEBhKrQrYFDY/s1600/20120719_lapland_0103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnV50OaqSTZThW5E42XFntIJUt2Zu8mDrCDKu7e5XqjJU4fFoVYi-SGHv7aNxERMBA1RkSkjr8SXR-1a9-T-zbxzAj3XvZ8um-ZxRHpobH3qvavcZTIvvRo0y8Xc7ZTOxfEBhKrQrYFDY/s640/20120719_lapland_0103.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of those portraits of this blogger that shows I have both an explorer's keen sense of vision and fashion awareness. <br />
Photo. S.Savolainen</td></tr>
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So in that strange Jurassic Park setting high up in the hills of Halti I got Sakari and Stuart to pose for me while I wiped the lens free of condensation every minute and using each of them as VOLs (Voice Activated Light Stands) I managed a few fun shots against a backdrop of scattered glacial rocks and the timeless summer fog. <br />
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<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-49580264578175781252012-08-06T12:39:00.001-07:002012-08-07T01:53:02.590-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - Of Maps and No Maps<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDquQuVWsTDS6lWdL2_xXMHlRglKI1hHsrXRkfxc15S_FhnUlFotrZ57m9cHNxeiWKiReupSWl9x2h0VgKt7AlyoptXpMjio4zMuXbvCPxyW2X9rlJUAVZ5B6xOfBh1x6Hrjut8EiwWA/s1600/20120717_iPhone_0132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDquQuVWsTDS6lWdL2_xXMHlRglKI1hHsrXRkfxc15S_FhnUlFotrZ57m9cHNxeiWKiReupSWl9x2h0VgKt7AlyoptXpMjio4zMuXbvCPxyW2X9rlJUAVZ5B6xOfBh1x6Hrjut8EiwWA/s640/20120717_iPhone_0132.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The iPhone version of the map with red route line</td></tr>
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18.07.2012 - In my preparations for Lapland I purchased a very detailed map of the region. As we expected to hike down into Finland on the first day it seemed unnecessary to purchase another one to cover just a few kilometers of rolling hills. If the car hadn't developed engine trouble, then we would easily have reached our starting point and made the necessary progress on the first day. Serious mistake number 1. As it happened, we were well out of our mapped area on the first night and only barely within it on the second. <br />
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By some stroke of luck we had found a National Park map information board at the end of the road on Day 1, and had the wit to photograph it with a camera and iPhone just in case. Relying on electronic devices in the wilderness is complete madness, and we were not exactly very far from a road even at the end of the first day, but with the change in weather and our new idea to enter Finland along the eastern slopes of Halti - this little map proved to be essential information when we needed it the most.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6WiHkOsvT0EQRL4lvd42U9SuyEIRUC_DLpKDucIMqJ9QT5Idg1RKKcmSmOe5kn69iVyIypsXUSkE1HZQYYGNekJJMmRr4_WNQoXt-ULxfhb-vIxbjoBiXIWp-NYa3aoNtbx3QU9DcMA/s1600/20120717_lapland_0146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6WiHkOsvT0EQRL4lvd42U9SuyEIRUC_DLpKDucIMqJ9QT5Idg1RKKcmSmOe5kn69iVyIypsXUSkE1HZQYYGNekJJMmRr4_WNQoXt-ULxfhb-vIxbjoBiXIWp-NYa3aoNtbx3QU9DcMA/s640/20120717_lapland_0146.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart crouches low to take a few shots of the ice</td></tr>
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Packing up camp very soon becomes a routine affair. With everything compartmentalized in neat Ortlieb waterproof bags I've come to realize the real advantages of being well organized. The weather can change rapidly in the hills and you can go from warm and sunny to cold, wet and windy in a minute and you really don't want to have to think where you packed your waterproofs. With everything in sealed bags then the chances of things getting wet - even if your pack falls in water, is reduced to a minimum.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChAmOhLtZi85w-5bgtciHugtuThZlUnxWPu0BcVXFHyCUo4jsCc4othBxusdteHKVC1F4zYhbSBBkjbvg5mST2IuDCY2xer1CkHZwdd82h5whqjSzQhgMZacH2pngF9GYrpbKVQFfCK0/s1600/20120717_lapland_0159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChAmOhLtZi85w-5bgtciHugtuThZlUnxWPu0BcVXFHyCUo4jsCc4othBxusdteHKVC1F4zYhbSBBkjbvg5mST2IuDCY2xer1CkHZwdd82h5whqjSzQhgMZacH2pngF9GYrpbKVQFfCK0/s640/20120717_lapland_0159.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slow melting ice on the river</td></tr>
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You won't find me talking much about my boots, except to say that they work. They more than work. The Haglöf Grym's are no fairy tale (had to put that in) and with the high ankle my feet never ever got wet no matter where I went with them. At the end of the day they were still bone dry, so were my socks - and not the slightest whiff of foot odor. It has to be said (after 20 years of hiking boots) that these are not only the most comfortable boots I have ever worn, but possibly the most comfortable shoes that have ever wrapped themselves around my feet. Remarkable they are. Plus - Stuart - who had arrived in Finland with well prepared but completely inadequate hiking boots and had bought his Haglöf Gryms down at the local outdoor store - wore them for the first time on the hike - something you would never dream of with regular hiking boots.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT4vO0PGIA0HE5zhCGORv83jiydmBWDLwJT_uhawPT04ZY1oJliDEgHkkmVYH0VTWKGnXtlqk78FPUx65Mgn2pUKVkfycVGw-SB-jaJ3C1oypH4LXZ82_0iXLPMTqGcvg_BPh06OFQh9U/s1600/20120717_lapland_0098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT4vO0PGIA0HE5zhCGORv83jiydmBWDLwJT_uhawPT04ZY1oJliDEgHkkmVYH0VTWKGnXtlqk78FPUx65Mgn2pUKVkfycVGw-SB-jaJ3C1oypH4LXZ82_0iXLPMTqGcvg_BPh06OFQh9U/s640/20120717_lapland_0098.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari cooking breakfast - or is it lunch?</td></tr>
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You will find me talking a lot about the Solarstrap solar powered iPhone chargers which we brought with us in the hope of maintaining power over a week. I am a keen iPhone photo app freak and love to make short video clips - but all these are power hungry and the iPhone is not the most energy efficient device despite being the best in every other way.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLbn5YfFBorRdFExJOEFR3Sxfr9SBTBONS6oZ4MychssTQl8q6N2X4N07vXKa0jod8M4C_-ES3AhxM58dc-th5-UF5Z_wKf1FWNPwkVfOcO_zZ7vwjEuMqmOwJPc4QkNOSsHm3lU066hY/s1600/20120718_lapland_0011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLbn5YfFBorRdFExJOEFR3Sxfr9SBTBONS6oZ4MychssTQl8q6N2X4N07vXKa0jod8M4C_-ES3AhxM58dc-th5-UF5Z_wKf1FWNPwkVfOcO_zZ7vwjEuMqmOwJPc4QkNOSsHm3lU066hY/s640/20120718_lapland_0011.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart catches the last rays of the sun with the Solarstrap before we head off on day 2</td></tr>
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To be fair on Suntrica and their Solarstrap iPhone charger - the deterioration in the weather didn't give them much of a chance to prove themselves but I had the luck of having several versions with me fully charged through a USB cable before landing in Kittilä. In fact I had hoped to try out some pre-release products at the same time from Suntrica but with virtually no direct sun after day 1 this was just not going to happen.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfGWv55zTsCHctvLHrsSFE-YzCEWLD_xstS1dY6vFmfD5L8BNLKwy1jYCL0Jpsk7KMiXodNLPWULMLWo8LvFPezQ0Gq_sSoReMN2F3N_tZ3URB6ldqZMuEIbEQOxr_vCrlILl69OvcSQ/s1600/20120718_lapland_0020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfGWv55zTsCHctvLHrsSFE-YzCEWLD_xstS1dY6vFmfD5L8BNLKwy1jYCL0Jpsk7KMiXodNLPWULMLWo8LvFPezQ0Gq_sSoReMN2F3N_tZ3URB6ldqZMuEIbEQOxr_vCrlILl69OvcSQ/s640/20120718_lapland_0020.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari complete with mosquitoes</td></tr>
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What did happen was a combination of setting up the iPhone to use the least amount of power, i.e., location services off, lower screen brightness, vibrator off, airplane mode and other little tweaks which left me the use of my video and camera apps to use as I like. I had 4 solar straps with me and one spare battery and that was enough for a daily round of videos and other camera stuff. These amazing little devices are very light and having that extra power when you could be in a critical situation (with network coverage) could come in very handy. As we almost never found network coverage we did expose ourselves to some level of risk but we did find spots where there was coverage and kept a log of where they were. On several occasions I woke up with the battery perilously low and with the Solarstrap hooked up to my phone as I walked brought the device up to 97% charge every time. The phone battery never got past 97% charge which I thought might be a software bug, but recharging your phone in the middle of nowhere is a thrill to be savored in any case and well worth the investment if a guaranteed source of power is what you need.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxiXNVv1dyhpLz3ns7foF3YK_eHhQOwodITfVR2NUuyju_0v5t5Em7Ev1-_Fd8A7yVMM89sFYswAhfIDcEpeXJssxTv4dj6TnmGjm3NIvFXW-oO-CWnCgiv_zDLFYVQRMSDvu9Li-qxuY/s1600/20120718_lapland_0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxiXNVv1dyhpLz3ns7foF3YK_eHhQOwodITfVR2NUuyju_0v5t5Em7Ev1-_Fd8A7yVMM89sFYswAhfIDcEpeXJssxTv4dj6TnmGjm3NIvFXW-oO-CWnCgiv_zDLFYVQRMSDvu9Li-qxuY/s640/20120718_lapland_0024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari walks along the eastern ridge in the foothills of Norwegian Halti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UkxjeYN-R-N4xOzRe8W44tj11Dc0nPMTR8ctARG9plRo-57scNjEElw7vKcHw2XPKn1tl3hHbeFoyBChHA_uYZcIMB6MEM87qB77o5Okq7CT4h4436590Q85sECdChyphenhyphenDumMuVl7Ud5Q/s1600/20120718_lapland_0029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UkxjeYN-R-N4xOzRe8W44tj11Dc0nPMTR8ctARG9plRo-57scNjEElw7vKcHw2XPKn1tl3hHbeFoyBChHA_uYZcIMB6MEM87qB77o5Okq7CT4h4436590Q85sECdChyphenhyphenDumMuVl7Ud5Q/s640/20120718_lapland_0029.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart with his Haglöfs, poles and pack.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfC96XvAH7FNfFMU9upUhcyB3y4RtGn-FAGmp1TrEGCV-WS7wIvHsjkDAb9RhdHKDszI1NDEvkB9MPFb2Sv0yQENkgh_gB5cMC3V68-D72UmkcY5ezOl4UdIXh-2VkUb0G5dZc3fwffI0/s1600/20120718_lapland_0028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfC96XvAH7FNfFMU9upUhcyB3y4RtGn-FAGmp1TrEGCV-WS7wIvHsjkDAb9RhdHKDszI1NDEvkB9MPFb2Sv0yQENkgh_gB5cMC3V68-D72UmkcY5ezOl4UdIXh-2VkUb0G5dZc3fwffI0/s640/20120718_lapland_0028.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view looking north as we left the camp on Day 2</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhhbRpgJ6GpbZm0DlDidoZ9_naIJeGZgfFoFySYIsa79zy0eabJWSIjSK17tMgrEBl8_pSsAyQOBI6ftuc0AZ2PfaRz02_upT2aD725V4A_E-h6rtfBuBdQM04P0zE0WmKfhyphenhyphenxdJn9ag/s1600/20120718_lapland_0034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEhhbRpgJ6GpbZm0DlDidoZ9_naIJeGZgfFoFySYIsa79zy0eabJWSIjSK17tMgrEBl8_pSsAyQOBI6ftuc0AZ2PfaRz02_upT2aD725V4A_E-h6rtfBuBdQM04P0zE0WmKfhyphenhyphenxdJn9ag/s640/20120718_lapland_0034.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking south along the river bed towards the Finnish border</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHyr5M4EdsaDsd-q-8_gZMkVJuC8uQUiwTlIxGbUQvoLoYftOgjl1vl0gsCXZb68cAmksenqpaV2LF2P2U0vFuXgfWDpSJGnqB_IRW8k8hyKTkCurs6peADerQIIhJikfRmsfA5UQTMg/s1600/20120718_lapland_0057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwHyr5M4EdsaDsd-q-8_gZMkVJuC8uQUiwTlIxGbUQvoLoYftOgjl1vl0gsCXZb68cAmksenqpaV2LF2P2U0vFuXgfWDpSJGnqB_IRW8k8hyKTkCurs6peADerQIIhJikfRmsfA5UQTMg/s640/20120718_lapland_0057.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari - hands free walking - camera always on.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmL8GxAtQDOJYKJvb3RI0X25bKw3ihfa2u2nX-rCCTbUqYBg1qHYFIBoyQnsCrXXfylx-62EODWOhhlJyzwee8H-YjIUkktFcY8qhkczCiTu-YPZNBtUmAVQpMG2oZKsOKS_LvUHAUaM/s1600/20120718_lapland_0035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmL8GxAtQDOJYKJvb3RI0X25bKw3ihfa2u2nX-rCCTbUqYBg1qHYFIBoyQnsCrXXfylx-62EODWOhhlJyzwee8H-YjIUkktFcY8qhkczCiTu-YPZNBtUmAVQpMG2oZKsOKS_LvUHAUaM/s640/20120718_lapland_0035.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View north along the river bed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Its not easy to walk and take photos, especially when you have all that weight on your back and walking poles in each hand. That is one reason Sakari doesn't use them and prefers to pick his way through the rocky terrain with balletic precision rather than relying on the 4 legged version of hill walking preferred by his companions. Stuart and I would often stop and marvel at his figure - some kind of Giant Ninja Turtle with a green waterproof shell dwarfing his body with two legs deftly picking out the tiny rigid peaks of this miniature mountain range.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixd-tWAbm432Su9VMbL25Ufa1OSr4qkUGTsF-1s6MqJfWup2JK6DaxdyilKCvrIUiVIyX_Pv1jqpwsCF1g01xg4SnWsrEAuiBM3QuP8tiIETZ0Yutiy83Egu1ArKEwyEZrVDQHbvuj4-4/s1600/20120718_lapland_0108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixd-tWAbm432Su9VMbL25Ufa1OSr4qkUGTsF-1s6MqJfWup2JK6DaxdyilKCvrIUiVIyX_Pv1jqpwsCF1g01xg4SnWsrEAuiBM3QuP8tiIETZ0Yutiy83Egu1ArKEwyEZrVDQHbvuj4-4/s640/20120718_lapland_0108.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart in front, Sakari close behind having forded the river and heading higher up the slopes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvsDwFdf6R6Xq9AYKHkI75ioLtyjydhTNhLMXKbvDWFi63QiVFuIPAjz-rSeQiJkXE0TyGUMx5RdjdJiX9h_NThsUBe-ITa-iDranpyPAhOE87Sch6ZsM2A9AYt6-4nsRvxDY6z044FU/s1600/20120718_lapland_0115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvsDwFdf6R6Xq9AYKHkI75ioLtyjydhTNhLMXKbvDWFi63QiVFuIPAjz-rSeQiJkXE0TyGUMx5RdjdJiX9h_NThsUBe-ITa-iDranpyPAhOE87Sch6ZsM2A9AYt6-4nsRvxDY6z044FU/s640/20120718_lapland_0115.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colorful lichens in the desert landscape on the slopes of Halti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiR8m-V6Pan_uGs2F9Xk8-41zPbZt0C60pVGJdhyphenhyphensLjvYpERkMRepkKcKOLSPUP1UtP4Ht37xEUeFbGesHpCgQWpPwnB0avHa9FzltBx24AWwlQUJlXo4a99pv_uND-xJo1LIm6ToNFVY/s1600/20120718_lapland_0112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiR8m-V6Pan_uGs2F9Xk8-41zPbZt0C60pVGJdhyphenhyphensLjvYpERkMRepkKcKOLSPUP1UtP4Ht37xEUeFbGesHpCgQWpPwnB0avHa9FzltBx24AWwlQUJlXo4a99pv_uND-xJo1LIm6ToNFVY/s640/20120718_lapland_0112.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart reaches the top of the ridge with Sakari not far behind.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In fact I had three 'cameras' with me. The Canon 5D mkII is my workhorse and came with an 50mm F/1.2 and my EF 28-135 F/3.5-5.6. I rarely change lenses on the move for obvious reasons and so on the first couple of days nearly all the shots are done with the 28-135. I also had the use of the Canon Powershot G1X which came out for the last day. I didn't have spare batteries for the Powershot, but carried 4 spares for the 5D shooting only when the opportunity presented itself while walking and in the evenings and early mornings. Still, I'm happy with some of the shots which show something of a landscape which is at once primeval and raw.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdiIiFM4VLoN94NINT0RyhMJB6Xo8tp7QxWtPxgE2WLiVpnep0hzCsMixAFnSg6iglVmWJkhA0VBmTCmCSK0bEleo_BjKnRJuQijQK6_LFnx3436oHBH_dB4v6eliomWuMZ8HJTcZKKs/s1600/20120718_lapland_0117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdiIiFM4VLoN94NINT0RyhMJB6Xo8tp7QxWtPxgE2WLiVpnep0hzCsMixAFnSg6iglVmWJkhA0VBmTCmCSK0bEleo_BjKnRJuQijQK6_LFnx3436oHBH_dB4v6eliomWuMZ8HJTcZKKs/s640/20120718_lapland_0117.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clouds turning heavy in the early afternoon</td></tr>
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The disappearance of the mosquitoes which were rather troublesome on the first day was both a good sign and a bad. The ability to do without the fuzzy unfocused view through the head net was a great relief. We were climbing of course, and mosquitoes need oxygen and warmth and the increase in altitude brought with it cooler air and enough wind to blow them away. I can't tell you exactly what the temperature was up there on the hills, but I can say that when Sakari looked over my kit before we left for Lapland he did ask me to take something warmer and I'm very glad he did. <br />
<br />
Our thoughts about skirting around the Norwegian Halti to get to the Finnish side evaporated as a band of fog swept over the top of the highest peaks. As the cloud cover thickened, we decided to get to a lower altitude, close to a lake for the night and headed down off the peak in a steep descent on very rocky terrain with massive boulders that slowed us down to only a few meters per minute.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKKb8gdtHNq6WZgFxgvzUcUMhG9sMotU9ZCRR6KDTgZkcfC_BkkuqJeDrEjn45q_iIE2AHIXE6ZdB7ZNocWvi2Asnja-OxQY-JpX4vqCa7ddeeJF_s_KdJ5074ZOATlpTit34IwsYvaU/s1600/20120718_lapland_0128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKKb8gdtHNq6WZgFxgvzUcUMhG9sMotU9ZCRR6KDTgZkcfC_BkkuqJeDrEjn45q_iIE2AHIXE6ZdB7ZNocWvi2Asnja-OxQY-JpX4vqCa7ddeeJF_s_KdJ5074ZOATlpTit34IwsYvaU/s640/20120718_lapland_0128.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The steep climb down to camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finally with sight of the first of two small lakes in the valley below we were within range of the map I was carrying and with all the tools at our disposal to plan our route for Day 3. For now the legs were once again wobbly from the day's weight and the stomach aching for something hot.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLClUF6k3bBmnac-QjsavomdREZYdI_7lQxe3GOWrTyZZ5OmrGcf7n5B9CGy0hNxyN49couvu5mh5qm7PBJADXVbg4SpzYN7WDcamRblzNSsTNsVv7_-HvXOUeO04TcHsJ0G8PBbxzQ7g/s1600/20120718_lapland_0139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLClUF6k3bBmnac-QjsavomdREZYdI_7lQxe3GOWrTyZZ5OmrGcf7n5B9CGy0hNxyN49couvu5mh5qm7PBJADXVbg4SpzYN7WDcamRblzNSsTNsVv7_-HvXOUeO04TcHsJ0G8PBbxzQ7g/s640/20120718_lapland_0139.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow lined lake in the hills around Halti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72vT7C1EpYOPE8BgW6EyVUzVauHdpr04JsJBpZuG3nQt1NeZ-2Zdqmdv939tbYHaZ-5JDugO4xnPpt1a3nLMBdCzvaQvv7ng0SNOpR7Y6rHtFD_eSRTC4AjNVC7H3pzS5wvTschLtD1I/s1600/20120718_lapland_0143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72vT7C1EpYOPE8BgW6EyVUzVauHdpr04JsJBpZuG3nQt1NeZ-2Zdqmdv939tbYHaZ-5JDugO4xnPpt1a3nLMBdCzvaQvv7ng0SNOpR7Y6rHtFD_eSRTC4AjNVC7H3pzS5wvTschLtD1I/s640/20120718_lapland_0143.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari's tent - end of Day 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We set up our camp by the lake, cooked and slept - a deep heavy sleep that comes as easily and thickly as the fog that crept down from the mountain while the wild reindeer herds ran across the snow in the distance.</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-68490587449880375422012-08-05T00:34:00.001-07:002012-08-05T00:34:45.162-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - North Norway<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
17.07.2012 - Stuart and I met up with Sakari at the Hotel Kilpis under
the giant slab-like shadow of Saana fell. Sakari had booked a room for us and
we settled in to an evening of last minute plans, supper and sauna. In
the morning after a great breakfast we were packed up and ready to move.<br />
<br />
Well, of course even the best laid plans change - as does the weather. Our plan was to head up to the Norwegian coast and down one of the fjords to get as close as possible to the north side of Halti - the highest point in Finland. At 1365 meters Halti isn't exactly a challenge to an experienced climber - but this far north anything can happen to the weather, and any change can turn easy into hard going.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCZYvXXhwOi_BMAdL36s5too9yPZwt9sVhgYeiJrUUxRZ9sZuuMLJJs6CsOnnzV9qS3BHUL23X4VFE8MuEMt14jOjy_8g5tX5YP36mQCPYu8pamJ5A4cF338psnLlZSDzfYz7sTn1qjg/s1600/20120716_lapland_0011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCZYvXXhwOi_BMAdL36s5too9yPZwt9sVhgYeiJrUUxRZ9sZuuMLJJs6CsOnnzV9qS3BHUL23X4VFE8MuEMt14jOjy_8g5tX5YP36mQCPYu8pamJ5A4cF338psnLlZSDzfYz7sTn1qjg/s640/20120716_lapland_0011.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuart and Sakari check out the planned route</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpW-LFwADkJL3Gu4ARph-wDMxWy8QZRa1hBe7OnFxhccKAZ4MWcagM9_DKISTUBQtPLj1Bos4pb7ib4PhbsdqjcGSKzUVd9jRnbNeP3qfFSGj8jI26TBSObvRFheijjTbZs8CLLhyapJM/s1600/20120717_iPhone_0089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpW-LFwADkJL3Gu4ARph-wDMxWy8QZRa1hBe7OnFxhccKAZ4MWcagM9_DKISTUBQtPLj1Bos4pb7ib4PhbsdqjcGSKzUVd9jRnbNeP3qfFSGj8jI26TBSObvRFheijjTbZs8CLLhyapJM/s640/20120717_iPhone_0089.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari and me complete with my new mosquito hat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHHCnedzwJuKxd7P3zO2_N3PR3ZR8_cAFLUcJgl3byJ__x49gVWf8go2cY9M5GAqViQU5-NpMEjUT5qpdbSK7U9wouT84X23QRwQQj9P6SInNuwytUt8F1qXb2FKnI1GgjT10L_CjV_2c/s1600/20120717_lapland_0029-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHHCnedzwJuKxd7P3zO2_N3PR3ZR8_cAFLUcJgl3byJ__x49gVWf8go2cY9M5GAqViQU5-NpMEjUT5qpdbSK7U9wouT84X23QRwQQj9P6SInNuwytUt8F1qXb2FKnI1GgjT10L_CjV_2c/s640/20120717_lapland_0029-Edit.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama on the Norwegian coast</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The place at North Troms where we leave the coast and head south into the hills.</td></tr>
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So, after a few short breaks along the coast we turned inland from the Northern Troms and began the gentle climb along the road toward our planned parking place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI89JVaiPcBsC1O5kMbWyHlnwm770BDLM6QFWz_Azde4oteZKnVFeEa27tr7seWTfYalbW90UK7xJhY0OH94bNvdUK-9YsbDOjYOiZUwZk7hO5zDlQtsv8WOT70cK5HdM1je0URnMDTiU/s1600/20120717_lapland_0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI89JVaiPcBsC1O5kMbWyHlnwm770BDLM6QFWz_Azde4oteZKnVFeEa27tr7seWTfYalbW90UK7xJhY0OH94bNvdUK-9YsbDOjYOiZUwZk7hO5zDlQtsv8WOT70cK5HdM1je0URnMDTiU/s640/20120717_lapland_0009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A short break as we climb into the hills</td></tr>
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One short sharp bump over a cattle grid and we were soon nursing a cracked radiator and facing an overheating engine miles from anywhere against a backdrop of raw mountains and roaring waterfalls. It wasn't the best way to start our week in the wilderness, but we managed to patch it up with Stuart's nylon ties and left the car high on a hill before setting off South on foot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2jmJjf2ooUvldRehhQHM6bX4E_P8oHJFRtYYqr7ZrEf3m9l7bNfp_yYBugdW8eoP_SlHBXIHGiEMK5VrrQdk0X2lHiISXJ6NAP2mavhjDOlEMHqZ3FHNF7qIdiGU_peBvffZaS1IVLYc/s1600/20120717_lapland_0040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2jmJjf2ooUvldRehhQHM6bX4E_P8oHJFRtYYqr7ZrEf3m9l7bNfp_yYBugdW8eoP_SlHBXIHGiEMK5VrrQdk0X2lHiISXJ6NAP2mavhjDOlEMHqZ3FHNF7qIdiGU_peBvffZaS1IVLYc/s640/20120717_lapland_0040.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Car repaired and ready to move on.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5FEWuK8Hyyn8cO_Zh0g0ttwxEQDJfrdOtRMDiP-iojCmplIhaKlyYkBq44WzRV4Mqg00KEO-xXQ4X74JiOUmpslqCwyIx3YJF9HYMalH7Az0L374cFVSDkgsQ3MqRBpMABhdg64rVD9s/s1600/20120717_lapland_0049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5FEWuK8Hyyn8cO_Zh0g0ttwxEQDJfrdOtRMDiP-iojCmplIhaKlyYkBq44WzRV4Mqg00KEO-xXQ4X74JiOUmpslqCwyIx3YJF9HYMalH7Az0L374cFVSDkgsQ3MqRBpMABhdg64rVD9s/s640/20120717_lapland_0049.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfall and abandoned building in the hills of North Norway</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bpXjhfYZdyARnVFKN1od8f6V9pJYNRW7JOcLleItSrjFVTL4N9yVGlf8_Vm4ufMCfN9Qj9v3f_WrqXbIQAnJSMcqQQQjenL6HJQxj88trA5BZ_V00ZxLcZLtrpUWxwC-UfgPb4PneFo/s1600/20120717_lapland_0067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bpXjhfYZdyARnVFKN1od8f6V9pJYNRW7JOcLleItSrjFVTL4N9yVGlf8_Vm4ufMCfN9Qj9v3f_WrqXbIQAnJSMcqQQQjenL6HJQxj88trA5BZ_V00ZxLcZLtrpUWxwC-UfgPb4PneFo/s640/20120717_lapland_0067.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Radiator pitstop </td></tr>
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<br />The first kilometers are usually the toughest. The 20+ kilo's on your back seem to gain weight as you walk, and the change of pace from normal walking feels quite strange.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8veNe0sGkXFdXaa1oGILHKVVCl337Xh0QgOPAVhQ4LD-h5Jm3y-ci3Ypc_ifXZ0MD4xl1LljR3TG1_gMwKyPFqAL4RjJeCKxv4Dh-fJeNgXhYALClblRyX-Y35wFZq3qNtM4nghnHnK8/s1600/20120717_lapland_0068-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8veNe0sGkXFdXaa1oGILHKVVCl337Xh0QgOPAVhQ4LD-h5Jm3y-ci3Ypc_ifXZ0MD4xl1LljR3TG1_gMwKyPFqAL4RjJeCKxv4Dh-fJeNgXhYALClblRyX-Y35wFZq3qNtM4nghnHnK8/s640/20120717_lapland_0068-Edit.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting point panorama</td></tr>
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The landscape slows down, details come into focus and every step becomes deliberate and calculated. The day is punctuated with short breaks for coffee or snacks and the moments when the back packs are lifted off give the body a sensation of weightlessness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBdCn0Q9gTc6cbALfYWqi6GggYibtFkbZqxVaQ9umXQD4pQaQz39x18dDAavwHwnGsNTuOPuv5lnsxALRHT39Q7nfbpGKFJox3wvtLDWea6TMWiO5Y8kxCLv__pywunHNLN5hDR_r5uxM/s1600/20120717_lapland_0076.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBdCn0Q9gTc6cbALfYWqi6GggYibtFkbZqxVaQ9umXQD4pQaQz39x18dDAavwHwnGsNTuOPuv5lnsxALRHT39Q7nfbpGKFJox3wvtLDWea6TMWiO5Y8kxCLv__pywunHNLN5hDR_r5uxM/s640/20120717_lapland_0076.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari tries out my walking sticks - and hates them!</td></tr>
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Progress on the first day was slow; a steady walk across streams, through fields of scattered stones and up the lower slopes of Halti on the Norwegian side with occasional stops for food and drink.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAFP-O-QWQziyNIehWOvLqEfw6PO8BfmwmGWLxdvgOd5goqODx8JM7sv8ihYxD0jDHQjV83ImbBkvDLCcwzYRlzhjGnw5-s7dzqfVgc0Op0-UCi1Tqsc7-DJkNCa3iFK0OGxsjayCfKn4/s1600/20120717_lapland_0073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAFP-O-QWQziyNIehWOvLqEfw6PO8BfmwmGWLxdvgOd5goqODx8JM7sv8ihYxD0jDHQjV83ImbBkvDLCcwzYRlzhjGnw5-s7dzqfVgc0Op0-UCi1Tqsc7-DJkNCa3iFK0OGxsjayCfKn4/s640/20120717_lapland_0073.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last bits of road</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRID77EfHEXyDW3XujLP1rBybnJNGrqua_CkY1hwFGLXqqizEmm6Guzvw5tnoKv89hObWPS_CKPpRx8-C0VzwHDp_v6eVrv1al46tYsIGJ6FDb8T3Ai-v-1tbqgkxT854QjKlRdavyZbs/s1600/20120717_lapland_0079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRID77EfHEXyDW3XujLP1rBybnJNGrqua_CkY1hwFGLXqqizEmm6Guzvw5tnoKv89hObWPS_CKPpRx8-C0VzwHDp_v6eVrv1al46tYsIGJ6FDb8T3Ai-v-1tbqgkxT854QjKlRdavyZbs/s640/20120717_lapland_0079.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cleaner than bottled water up here in the fells</td></tr>
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Sometime in the early evening we pitched our tents as the sun crawled under the clouds to the north. It takes time to arrive in the state of mind where your thoughts are only about the here and now.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbf4E-HpETmki3kHZlVk5k0hqqxIkGMSa6P8MJFy9pC26VpmzROZ1HLXVb5ixgneXuiIGbejI9QvBSdXpOZEeNCE15bAKkWiQdrPCJ5FRSYBrnxxTtg808uWwXh9G88VEGkjfTAEw-Bjw/s1600/20120717_lapland_0086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbf4E-HpETmki3kHZlVk5k0hqqxIkGMSa6P8MJFy9pC26VpmzROZ1HLXVb5ixgneXuiIGbejI9QvBSdXpOZEeNCE15bAKkWiQdrPCJ5FRSYBrnxxTtg808uWwXh9G88VEGkjfTAEw-Bjw/s640/20120717_lapland_0086.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sakari - taking Finnish sausage to places it has never been seen before</td></tr>
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Looking out across the ancient landscape on these last weeks of July, the patches of melting snow and sound of rushing water remind one that this is the shortest summer season of anywhere in the world and that soon the snow will fall again and cover the land for another eight months.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe0CxCN2PMouMop5IIH58rohjfvf1io_l0Jbr7qme8laK8jrFVAkH6sMbNSXiFovQvWLWw33lHhlZUxOJBiUDUSN30ZlkcnXrxCLTZE7-SJdpqQJD2obTbb3hheKk2GpRs4FHWN99x588/s1600/20120717_lapland_0065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe0CxCN2PMouMop5IIH58rohjfvf1io_l0Jbr7qme8laK8jrFVAkH6sMbNSXiFovQvWLWw33lHhlZUxOJBiUDUSN30ZlkcnXrxCLTZE7-SJdpqQJD2obTbb3hheKk2GpRs4FHWN99x588/s640/20120717_lapland_0065.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arctic flowers everywhere</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0lPk8Iqdrs0i1cDlLxzlBFLMX8G8-xDn0SggWutnFzyfPfyl57ObuM1LfQZjG9uIFtlXzZ9OqkEFnK02WJQZL9ENLuTblRGps2zRGSLPhY5GEtgoJx45_EhQGh6bbBTO-HoEj93x4JTg/s1600/20120717_lapland_0095.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0lPk8Iqdrs0i1cDlLxzlBFLMX8G8-xDn0SggWutnFzyfPfyl57ObuM1LfQZjG9uIFtlXzZ9OqkEFnK02WJQZL9ENLuTblRGps2zRGSLPhY5GEtgoJx45_EhQGh6bbBTO-HoEj93x4JTg/s640/20120717_lapland_0095.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most vivid and colorful lichens you will ever see</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNDeHJNayraeJZVQARE8X_cRgxzPtrCuVFPHgzm6b5MeYoQvXsFsjpu29Ul6AqB_i3kgXMbUg1gykk9pb-Z6wp540yso30ErEakMD7wSqxtdAd-IgX0VFY-Mg01H6-Eoqzf_bPNvOEU6o/s1600/20120717_lapland_0138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNDeHJNayraeJZVQARE8X_cRgxzPtrCuVFPHgzm6b5MeYoQvXsFsjpu29Ul6AqB_i3kgXMbUg1gykk9pb-Z6wp540yso30ErEakMD7wSqxtdAd-IgX0VFY-Mg01H6-Eoqzf_bPNvOEU6o/s640/20120717_lapland_0138.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZi2GRiLPuZud3zMiq5wLoWW7ttj_GVnGWbdb054EDbRsBkat4-Mfuo87wwP28DwNb9VIkyun0QtAUpGcvAvmXcTCs-fb7NgZEplG8MjsqwrU97iqjd1_rv_7EOhe6WYxYEkd-OBcexmE/s1600/20120717_lapland_0113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZi2GRiLPuZud3zMiq5wLoWW7ttj_GVnGWbdb054EDbRsBkat4-Mfuo87wwP28DwNb9VIkyun0QtAUpGcvAvmXcTCs-fb7NgZEplG8MjsqwrU97iqjd1_rv_7EOhe6WYxYEkd-OBcexmE/s640/20120717_lapland_0113.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow lined banks of the mountain stream</td></tr>
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On 18th we'll make up our minds on the route we'll take depending on the overnight change in weather and our limited map resources. Oh, yeah - of course I have a map, and a compass - but the car broke down - remember? So we find ourselves still in Norway after a day's walking and the only map we have is a photograph of a map taken at the entrance to this national park on my iPhone with enough information to get us to where my map starts just inside the Finnish border of Halti! But that is another day. For now the legs are a little tired but the feet - well - the Haglöf Grym Highs have nested my feet so comfortably that I never thought about them: the best way to be with that much eight on you back. Warm, snug and very dry. <br /><br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-46863256080948085232012-07-16T13:18:00.001-07:002012-07-30T21:32:24.248-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - Sunseekers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The bus from Kittilä airport to Kilpisjärvi lurches gently from side to side. Along the clean wide road lined by the pointed pines and birch there is only the occasional side road and no power lines. Somehow the air has a clarity you don't experience very often except in these remote virgin landscapes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju89PIpgzWLEXdZRQdHEPi1Fche2lJVi10If09KL61EVGT6YDC5Z0RlsaEyvHvRWU3hxgKt0EvYDWwdyt6T97A4mzXVK1sbgVuF4J2s4tK0DRmlEwcPH3XWM_K0TnVKEnM2Nzm5oLbJPw/s1600/20120716_iPhone_0063.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju89PIpgzWLEXdZRQdHEPi1Fche2lJVi10If09KL61EVGT6YDC5Z0RlsaEyvHvRWU3hxgKt0EvYDWwdyt6T97A4mzXVK1sbgVuF4J2s4tK0DRmlEwcPH3XWM_K0TnVKEnM2Nzm5oLbJPw/s640/20120716_iPhone_0063.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I open my Sunseeker app just to see how much daylight we have at this point in our journey - interested more to see how long the days will be when we reach the top of Norway sometime later today or tomorrow morning. The map shows the sun rise at 1:37 and sets at 1:17. So we have 20 minutes of night and probably the sun just bounces off the horizon. </div>
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It was more than good fortune that our choice to fly north was today and not immediately after Stuart arrived. He had bought a great pair of boots for hiking from his local shop in Belgium, but the soft sole and low ankle meant that we had to find him something better for the seriously rough terrain we will be traversing in the coming days. </div>
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The good news was that our local shop - open on Sunday in summer - had just the right size of the same boot I had bought a month earlier - Haglöf Grym High. - a amazingly beautifully constructed synthetic boot fitted with a heat mouldable foot sole so you really don't need to wear them like a conventional boot. </div>
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Sakari tells me that he has already had some serious moments when the laces on one boot have got caught in the metal lace loops of the boot on the other foot and nearly sent him tumbling. On the street is one thing - but high up on a precipice doesn't really bear thinking about. </div>
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In Kilpisjärvi we met up with Sakari who was already booked into the local hotel and had spent the day hiking. After a meal at a local restaurant we headed back to the hotel for sauna and swim. I skipped the dip in the icy water chopping about in the bay and felt somehow happy to keep my kidneys for another day. </div>
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Tomorrow we head out earlyish - north to the Arctic ocean in Norway with a view to hitting our first campsite somewhere along the shores of Somasjärvi back on the Finnish side again. </div>
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We are intent on getting some interesting shots along the way. Norway promises some snow topped peaks if not snow itself and the mountains are bound to be spectacular. Sakari has a wonderful digital camera - a vintage model over 75 years old and held together with string and cello tape. It promises to yield some surprising results. </div>
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</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-42480506684547660232012-07-10T09:22:00.000-07:002012-07-11T01:23:52.664-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - Pack animal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Yes I know - I am a nerd - a packing nerd (that you can see well enough from the photo) and someone who first likes to plan well ahead and organize; and second allow enough room for changes to the master plan knowing that the common denominator in all this is food and shelter.</div><br />
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Nothing makes for easier planning than wilderness hiking above the Arctic Circle in summer. You have a couple of variables in great abundance that will never change in their basic form. </div><br />
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The first is light. It's the land of the midnight sun of course so even in July after the longest days have gone you still have sun 24/7 and even if it is cloudy at 3am it is sunny behind the cloud and therefore not dark.</div><br />
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The second is landscape. There is a ton of landscape up there and you should have everything you need wrapped up and water tight. We won't be doing any serious rock climbing as the mountains were all flattened by the last ice age but still we have a glorious mess of rubble to scramble through in vast open treeless tundra and the best case scenario is that it doesn't snow and leaves us with a week long window of sunshine to enjoy Lapland at its very best.</div><br />
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So with just under one week to go, and Sakari driving up north able to take a couple of gas canisters with him (which I can't take on the plane), I thought it would be a good time to put my gear together and see what it looks like. Sakari is the hiking veteran of our team and can do a quick inspection and make suggestions if there is anything I have forgotten.</div><br />
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Most of the items you can identify from the photo above. Everything we need for a week needs to be carried on our backs. We won't have access to any wood for a fire so I use the jet boil and a small gas canister for cooking. It's incredibly light weight and handy, boiling half a litre of water in two minutes. With a collapsible bowl, metal cup and plastic spoon, knife and fork I've got everything I need.</div><br />
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When it comes to food I like to plan a daily ration that delivers enough protein and energy with as low a dry weight ratio as possible. Starting with a breakfast of quick porridge and dried berry powder, Gatorade energy drink and coffee I'm set for the start of a day's hike. After a week on the trail this breakfast will have lost its charm but hunger is a great way to sustain interest in whatever you have in your pack and you need to leave camp on a full tank.</div><br />
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Each mini grip bag contains a porridge sachet, one quick noodle meal, 200 grams of dried nuts and raisins, 4 dried pieces of Finnish rye bread, a cup-a-soup, and 2 energy drinks and 2 coffees as well as a main meal and 50 grams of 70% dark chocolate. There is also a bag of dried apricots and I might still add some hot chocolate and boiled sweets but the basics are there and it is enough for 6+ days if necessary. With the main meal the daily food pack weighs 600 grams in the dry state so the total is close to 7 kilos give or take.</div><br />
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There will always be plenty of fresh water in the area we're walking but I still like to fill up my water pouch situated in the back support of my backpack.</div>
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Next we have my 2 man tent to be shared with Stuart, an arctic down sleeping bag, silk liner and inflatable mattress. The tent is a replica of the one I lost on Mont Blanc a few years ago suffering from mental fatigue and physical exhaustion on the way back down and is a 'Rolls Royce' in quality and comfort - more on that later.</div>
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Good hiking boots are essential and I have the Haglöfs Grym High and a really lightweight pair of Crocs for crossing the deeper rocky streams and evening wear.</div>
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There is also waterproof and warm clothing, first aid and navigation tools as well as an interesting array of solar power phone chargers provided by the Finnish company Suntrica to keep my iPhone up and running long enough to shoot some video and possibly update this blog with pictures if my solar power phone chargers keep me powered up. The whole backpack weighs in at just under 20 kilos and with a little fine tuning still to do I'm ready for the (hopefully) unfrozen wastelands of the north. </div>
</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com65tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-19235259447332739732012-07-02T12:53:00.000-07:002012-07-04T13:55:58.944-07:00Lapland - Summer Hike 2012 - Mac in a Sac<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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There are very few times in my travels when I don't take my MacBook with me. I've carried that thing pretty much everywhere since I got it almost 4 years ago and it has never let me down - well almost never. <br />
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Once on the way back from Ireland, stuck for some hours in an airport in central Europe, it wouldn't boot and presented me with a question mark at start-up. With all my pictures backed up to a separate hard drive I wasn't that worried, but still I got that sinking feeling when it wasn't behaving normally. Fortunately the problem was simply a connection between the hard drive and the motherboard and didn't cost more than a few euros to repair. <br />
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In a few weeks time I'll be off to Lapland with a couple of friends fell walking on the border between Finland and Norway. As we will be carrying everything we need for over a week and we'll have no access to electricity the idea of bringing a Laptop of any description is out of the question.<br />
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So the only Mac I will have with me is a Mac in a Sac - a light weight raincoat that fits in a small package on the side of my backpack. These things are really lightweight. The last one I had for over 10 years and has only recently started to let the water in. Looking around some outdoor sport retailers in Helsinki today I found the price difference to be quite amazing. The prices in town were incredibly high so I checked the local outlet close to my home when I got back, picking up the very same item for 35% less than in the city. <br />
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I'm not that adverse to spending money but I see no point in wasting it. In the next couple of weeks before I leave for Lapland, I'll be going through my packing list to show you some of the essential items you will need for just over a week in the wilderness. It can be cold and it can be wet, but one thing you can be sure of is plenty of light. <br />
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The photographs I take will be taken on three different devices. I'm
relying heavily on large memory cards and good batteries. As the iPhone
is one of these devices I have another trick up my sleeve which I will
tell you about later. The iPhone is not really known for long battery
life - and I really do want to use it - so we need to have another
alternative. <br />
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I'll also be trying out a few new products and a couple of older ones
which I'll tell you about in the next post. From now until the last week
of July I'll be taking you through some of the preparation for a week
walking in the northern deserts of Finland and Norway starting on 16th
July and ending on the 23rd. I hope you'll join me. </div>
</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-32581940963744873762012-02-27T21:26:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:33:58.419-07:00Tanzania - My Tanzanian 'Big Five'<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlPiZBBuSnV489ZMfjOmQIecG6AY0cGq9dZQgUcuITYb19nMlJrfWXp_abRemusxpNsamSkJX0A-YCCfTf-tw3TaCNAt_XRO_E_x2HE_z25BA4pP1rWrDBnZKbiUXvD2th0IjLaqBvfro/s1600/20120227_facetoface-arusha_0013-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlPiZBBuSnV489ZMfjOmQIecG6AY0cGq9dZQgUcuITYb19nMlJrfWXp_abRemusxpNsamSkJX0A-YCCfTf-tw3TaCNAt_XRO_E_x2HE_z25BA4pP1rWrDBnZKbiUXvD2th0IjLaqBvfro/s640/20120227_facetoface-arusha_0013-2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taanisah's portrait on the Face to Face poster outside the Rock Art Gallery</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rashidi - head waiter at the Arusha Masai Cafe</td></tr>
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28.2 - The camera has given me the greatest opportunity to get out into the world and meet people. Tanzania - with all its wildlife and natural beauty is what brings most people here on their 'trip of a lifetime'; the Safaris into those amazing nature preserves, the so called 'Big Five' - Rhino, Lion, Buffalo, Leopard and Elephant. I'm not sure why they haven't included the Tanzanian national animal - the giraffe? Curious.<br />
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The hunters still come to take their trophies home, walk about with their guides inside the 'wild cage' - the guides who know just where to go - and the photographers anxious to repeat endless shots of sunsets, migrations, and zoom-lens photographs out of Land Cruiser windows. <br />
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Here then are my top five from the last 3 weeks and a strong reason to return to Tanzania in the future;<br />
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<li>Rock Art of Kondoa - the Amarula Campsite and the people of the surrounding villages.</li>
<li>Workshop participants who did an amazing job, learned fast, were passionate and inspired me with their results</li>
<li>Face to Face at the Arusha Masai Cafe - the most fun you can have with a camera and an Epson ink jet printer all in one day</li>
<li>Paper making with Seppo using local materials</li>
<li>Pizza at the Masai Cafe, served by Rashidi - if you haven't tried one its worth a trip to Arusha</li>
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I'm off home later today - a nice bus ride north to Nairobi in the changing season. I met some great people here in the last three weeks. <br />
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The Face to Face day yesterday was a great success - 30 portrait sessions in just 7 hours - special thanks to Seppo and Julieth, Emmanuel, Elke and Clive Justice who worked from 2pm to 8pm tirelessly providing a seamless flow of people in front of my camera. Big thanks also to Vernon and his friend for their spontaneous music during the gig keeping those waiting for their portraits entertained. I only heard it filtering through the wall as I was busy with the portraits! All the shots were taken with just two Canon 580 EX's and some rechargeables. When the power went off I could still shoot - so this morning we are finishing up the printing. There are too many faces to put into this blog, but here are a few of my favorites before I pack up my gear and head over to the Impala hotel to catch the shuttle.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marja and Nico</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zainab's brother</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roberti</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moira</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amaranta and Carlos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9CiVjuEoqCMZLS68lHhciIlOoclzPyH2b6yUKJpOiB1NWhZ0KgQ906mHYOZlXbZjSaq6-30Eg7Qnpk2zu-d4plsUqrMlva7UeiFUPgfwJiYU0DnDp-y5jxQWsp92-iyVV_kwYtqxQ8Ekp/s1600/20120227_facetoface-arusha_0017-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9CiVjuEoqCMZLS68lHhciIlOoclzPyH2b6yUKJpOiB1NWhZ0KgQ906mHYOZlXbZjSaq6-30Eg7Qnpk2zu-d4plsUqrMlva7UeiFUPgfwJiYU0DnDp-y5jxQWsp92-iyVV_kwYtqxQ8Ekp/s640/20120227_facetoface-arusha_0017-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter Mwasha</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-56717125482409260252012-02-26T07:28:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:33:44.679-07:00Tanzania - Print Day at the Arusha Masai Cafe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuE5YJzEjtCPw5HG-M6tjs2UNkwDrUNcGJedoj1RHgsbzdpCTcOrjmMW0mvVwG1J7Ce8tfi5Y5eILyEKoBPgz5BPfNmhcQyIeuQ-mKp_GM4pG22ez99jZ-V5AybD3JMrqj93fwRSSCk5hX/s1600/20120226_arusha_0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuE5YJzEjtCPw5HG-M6tjs2UNkwDrUNcGJedoj1RHgsbzdpCTcOrjmMW0mvVwG1J7Ce8tfi5Y5eILyEKoBPgz5BPfNmhcQyIeuQ-mKp_GM4pG22ez99jZ-V5AybD3JMrqj93fwRSSCk5hX/s640/20120226_arusha_0009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vernon with his prints on the Epson Traditional Photo paper</td></tr>
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26.02 - From a quiet start to the weekend workshops, Sunday turned out to be busy from 10am to 6pm. Zaneb - a 13 year old and some lovely pictures of lily pads and seaside images started by coating some Japanese papers and Tyvek with InkAid. While they were drying we pushed forward with her portfolio - making some small tweeks to the images before printing on the Epson Traditional Photo paper.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBNAmrxzAQdOjIWqRGou_eyPpjPP4uBSByNk-rLkPsJlNmcq-RF_IOqOfm_i8JapfA3oxvNIyS_18Sblt1YgG-dX814-6tnXeexZjGGm-mLh6K-EDxMrets8j4HQohUqDEA8nD-53gqid/s1600/20120226_arusha_0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBNAmrxzAQdOjIWqRGou_eyPpjPP4uBSByNk-rLkPsJlNmcq-RF_IOqOfm_i8JapfA3oxvNIyS_18Sblt1YgG-dX814-6tnXeexZjGGm-mLh6K-EDxMrets8j4HQohUqDEA8nD-53gqid/s640/20120226_arusha_0007.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zainab (loading the sheet into the Epson SP9900), Vernon and Peter</td></tr>
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Vernon had a great series of street shots again I tweeked them and converted a couple to Black and White and all turned out brilliantly - printing first on A3 and then to A2 for the shot he wanted large.<br />
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And then Peter - with his series of monochromatic images - shot on a small pocket camera - great tones beautifully rendered on this great paper.<br />
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There were no hiccups, except perhaps the time running out and people needing to dash off for various reasons. Here then is a selection of the participants works.<br />
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Thanks to everyone who helped out and took part in this workshop. Always fun and many surprises. Tomorrow we have Face to Face at the Arusha Masai Cafe - last blog update tomorrow night before I head back to Finland on Tuesday.</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-47196162172658246852012-02-24T21:13:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:32:34.466-07:00Tanzania - Finnish Sauna in Arusha<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Sauna at the Arusha Masai Cafe</td></tr>
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24.02 - It was a day of printing the Rock Art on hand made papers. There are dozens of files now prepared for print and with the Epson SP 9900 printing on the heavily deckled edges is quite a simple process. By disabling the paper size check and the paper skew check the bottom rough edged media can be put into the printer feed about 2cm from the feel rollers and the machine will ignore the fact that the paper isn't square. So the printing went really smoothly and the prints started coming out fast.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seppo and the Rock Art prints on hand made paper</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock Art Print on Hand Made paper</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Arrangements with the students from St Constantine International School to come in the evening for presentations somehow never materialized and after waiting for them to turn up for a while we decided to have sauna.<br />
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Now - how on earth did there come to be a Finnish Sauna at the Arusha Masai Cafe? When Seppo and Julieth took over the property there was a building used for storage between the outdoor restaurant and the kitchen. Seppo noticed a chimney sticking out of the roof - and inside a paneled up room - clearly with an area smaller than the shape of the building. Removing the panels he discovered a kiuas (sauna stove) and benches - a complete Finnish Sauna! So, as it happens the people who originally owned the place had been Finns and typically no home is complete without one.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Changing room</td></tr>
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The last thing I expected on coming to Tanzania was to spend an evening under the African stars sweating it out in a Finnish sauna - but there we were in that 'holy' place enjoying our Kilimanjaro beers - eating locally made makkara (sausage) and relaxing in the cool late summer night.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kiuas (stove)</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-80115715284693338852012-02-23T23:41:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:32:24.253-07:00Tanzania - In Passing - Via Via<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
24.02 - Yesterday we went out to look for some PVC support sheet - a journey through an industrial area of Arusha - dusty wide rough dirt roads lined with large scale buildings and people walking about. We didn't have much luck finding what we were looking for - but we did get some leads that Seppo can follow up after I leave.<br />
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Its not much fun shooting from the window of a Land Rover kangaroo. First off it feels too much like cheating for me - if I take a shot people should have the option to complain and give me the chance to delete something if they really don't want to be in the picture. So there is a certain amount of guilt involved in taking shots like these, but with so little time to get out of the vehicle I haven't got a lot of choice except to not take any.<br />
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After work we ate at the cafe and headed out to Via Via - a local outdoor night club frequented by local Tanzanian's, European's and white faces from various corners of the world in a large rambling series of dance floors, bars and a food stall or two.<br />
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White faces provide a ticket to a so-called 'better life' for ambitious youth, and there is a slight feeling that it doesn't matter much who you are as what you might be able to do in providing more options to an otherwise limited choice. Stressed out Europeans and North Americans tired of fighting a losing rat race battle to have more of everything enjoy the 'chill' of the Tanzanian culture and women and men everywhere in the world fall for the 'I've never felt this way about anyone before' routine with the conviction of lemmings with only a small proportion of them finding someone who really means it.<br />
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Inside the first dance hall the live music had the possibility to be quite good except that the habit of bands here tinkling away their tunes with the characteristic echo effects on full is to turn the volume of the singer up so high that it sounds more like an auction at a cattle ranch than anything remotely melodic. The beat of the drummer stands up to the punishment inflicted on the rest of the band by the singer, so you can enter the dance floor for a limited period until the blood starts dripping from your ears.<br />
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In any case watching from a comfortable distance I do marvel at the articulated hip movements Tanzanian women are capable of while dancing and wonder if they are actually engineered differently to us westerners.<br />
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Somewhere around 2am I got a tap on the shoulder and I turn to see Elina Voipio - a neighbour from Finland doing voluntary work here. She's bright eyed and obviously thoroughly enjoying the work and as most people who come here to live for a while the journey home is met with a degree of reluctance.<br />
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Back to work topics then. Tonight we start the second Arusha Masai Cafe workshop so there is work to be done to prepare. It will be a mixed bunch this weekend with some from last weekend's workshop and some newcomers. A busy few days ahead and at sometime today I try and get a bit of shuteye to make up for the lack of sleep from last night. Its sunny again this morning and the cock is crowing - time to get moving.</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-4732117626146028442012-02-23T00:29:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:32:12.147-07:00Tanzania - Face to Face at the Arusha Masai Cafe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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23.2 - Its raining every day here. The autumn is approaching and by mid March the heavy rains will be at their fullest and the streets will be like rivers. With the afternoon rain comes the power cuts and here at the cafe the staff run around outside removing cushions and the guests take shelter underneath the straw shades.<br />
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This morning I was at the police station to report the stolen phone. Fares Lameck came with me and the process took only an hour. There are no computers here, the station is a drab and dirty building with heavy report books and papers everywhere. At 8:30 am it is full already. A group of officers carry out a beaten up guy covered in blood and he lies on the floor beside 7 others huddled together. The officer takes the details of my case with Fares's help and the large report book with a carbon copy is filled out. We are directed upstairs to a long corridor with women and children huddled at the end of the hall and a series of rooms where I fill out forms and pay the 500 TZS with receipt - followed by another room where I pay a further 1000 TZS without receipt and are free to go.<br />
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I'm coming close to the end of my stay in Tanzania. Yesterday I gave a talk at the St. Constantine International School on the outskirts of town to a group of 14 and 15 year olds - some local children and some the children of diplomats and NGO personnel. It is midterm exam time and so the planned workshops during the week were cancelled and some students will join us this weekend and combine with the group we started with last week on Sunday for a final day of print. At the end of the talk several signed up for the workshop and I'm expecting a busy few days.<br />
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Seppo and I had been talking about the Face to Face project which I had done in Germany and Finland - a spontaneous and surprising exhibition of portraits created in real time and printed on the Epson SP 9900. The Arusha Masai Cafe is a meeting point with plenty of visitors popping in all day from 12 noon to 8pm and I thought it would be fun to try this using my Canon speedlights inside the gallery space. We've put an advert in the local advertiser and starting at 2pm. Emmanuel Kichere will be my assistant and will handle the downloading and cataloguing and prepare the shots for print. <br />
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So, on Wednesday afternoon we set up the lights and I ran him through the workflow. He's a bright guy, a very fast learner and certainly knows more about computers than I do - so he's at ease with the process and will hand the printing.<br />
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As were were experimenting with a few lighting setups Taanisah walks in the door - a young Tanzanian artist making enquiries about the space and I seize the opportunity to model and teach Emmanuel a bit more about lighting at the same time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taanisah</td></tr>
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Here then is the very primitive lighting set-up. I've got 2 x 580 EX's - a key light mounted on a tripod stand and with a Lastolite softbox and the power set to 1/2 through 2 diffusers. This creates a relatively strong main light. Emmanuel uses the light meter to get us a good exposure at 125s ISO 200 and F6.3 for a shot with enough depth of field to keep the models face in focus and blur the not-very-smooth wall behind.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our really basic lighting set-up with Emmanuel Kichere</td></tr>
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I would like a darker background to give better separation but you work with what you have and I'm happy with the results. The fill light is provided by a shoot-through white umbrella jammed inside the rungs of a stepladder and up really close set at 1/32 power. Everything is on manual so I can jump around the model and always get a perfect exposure.<br />
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As we were finishing up, Alvaro - the Spanish biology teacher and gifted photographer whom I met at St. Constantine's International School turned up for a beer and chat. He gave up a lucrative photography career in Madrid to come to teach biology here after getting his PhD. <br />
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Face to Face - If you are in Arusha (or want to pop down to Tanzania for the afternoon) come and join us. Its going to be a great last day (barring technical issues like power failures which happen on a regular basis anyway) and on Tuesday I'll be on a bus to Nairobi to meet up with Mukesh from Epson before I fly back to Finland on Wednesday.<br />
<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-17683970671309243652012-02-21T00:55:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:32:01.809-07:00Tanzania - Men<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rashidi fixing the hydraulic pump on Seppo's Land Rover</td></tr>
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It is in the countryside again where you meet people who have time as the pace of life is so much slower than the city. I had a few memorable encounters with men, in particular one young guy who had a Fuji film lab somewhere on the road to Kondoa and his pictures you can see in an earlier blog entry <a href="http://tanzaniaworkshops2012.blogspot.com/2012/02/road-to-kondoa.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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Women seem to always be busy in Tanzania - carrying, cooking, collecting water and looking after their babies and the children just seem to buzz around the village playing and getting up to the things that children do. The young girls and boys who are big enough carry water from the springs as part of their chores. The men however seem to live a different life - at least they seem to be on holiday whenever I pass by, and they sit in the shade of their houses while domestic work goes on around them. Not all men are like that of course and Daniel from Mneia near Kondoa works hard with Seppo on his projects and does so with amazing quiet efficiency.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS8CNodB8ikZiYTbRm4yrCjk6JtZzejuWHd6QkppGV_iBhOOt7lwVjGHizAw2Bw_l8Uuq-y1yi6Bwyv7Rc5rWs1tKGJf2GqsSDiHIqALyYiIb8vrSsxWdtcpI4MlLcZxLByRIvPEbnIKhS/s1600/20120209_arusha_0092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS8CNodB8ikZiYTbRm4yrCjk6JtZzejuWHd6QkppGV_iBhOOt7lwVjGHizAw2Bw_l8Uuq-y1yi6Bwyv7Rc5rWs1tKGJf2GqsSDiHIqALyYiIb8vrSsxWdtcpI4MlLcZxLByRIvPEbnIKhS/s640/20120209_arusha_0092.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tosha at the Arusha Masai Cafe</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michael at the Arusha masai Cafe</td></tr>
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Of the people in these photographs one of my favorites is Juma also from the village of Mneia - an older man who suddenly spoke to me in very fluent English and with a clarity of mind that too me by surprise. At 70 he is wiry and fit - a farmer in that area and probably one of the elders in the village contributing to local politics and the management of the community. He made me laugh with his comments and agreed for me to take his picture providing he could get a copy. 'Yes of course' I agreed with enthusiasm. 'Will you really send me a picture' he asked. 'I hope you don't have to ask me that question' I answered. (Must do it today so that Seppo can take it to him when he next travels to Kondoa in a few weeks.)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Juma in the Village of Mneia with his wife in the doorway</td></tr>
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So - the other men are from Arusha - either working here at the Arusha Masai Cafe or fixing Seppo's Land Rover.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr1H_N-2pxAx-uM2pHeCGI5pQ2ytc8QsH-KYqn9HWKtHFDQEiC5ITgDU_6dOU43hbHTClNrBBlG5r0nwrEF54tlFWLZbb5g-2BoWLccbxUtTS3GUPoSNAjZ1Vky7Wz1QkLa46L0dgAgsTI/s1600/20120216_arusha_0047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr1H_N-2pxAx-uM2pHeCGI5pQ2ytc8QsH-KYqn9HWKtHFDQEiC5ITgDU_6dOU43hbHTClNrBBlG5r0nwrEF54tlFWLZbb5g-2BoWLccbxUtTS3GUPoSNAjZ1Vky7Wz1QkLa46L0dgAgsTI/s640/20120216_arusha_0047.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel Kichere - one of the workshop participants in Arusha</td></tr>
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<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-47906760724531881912012-02-20T08:31:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:31:50.906-07:00Tanzania - The Women and Children of Tanzania<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Student from Imbafi Secondary school</td></tr>
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Out of the hustle and bustle of the city it is easier to meet people. Stopping by the road side in a village you find children gathering around; curious and shy playing for the camera and running to see the pictures you have taken. Sitting in the shade of a tree women are cooking or at the water spring they are filling their brightly coloured plastic buckets to carry on their heads back home.<br />
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These shots were taken in various locations between Arusha and Kondoa in the brief moments we had outside the Land Rover. Many people want money if you take their picture and this is a hard one for me because once you give money you have to keep giving money. I know photographers who do pay for their shots and its not much money by western standards, but somehow to me you never really make the proper connection when money becomes the currency of contact. I have enough fun with the people who open up to me as people and the ones who want money I leave alone. It takes time to meet people and take a portrait. Most of the time I shoot with a 50mm lens - up close and engaged. A long lens puts too much distance between me an my subject; shooting from several meters away I would feel too separated.<br />
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The shade behind buildings is bright and even and the hot sun bounces up off the street creating soft shadows on the faces.<br />
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Here are a few shots then of the women and children I have met during my travels here. They are beautiful people living in their world as we live in ours with the same basic concerns; family, food and shelter.<br />
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<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-75420745339560278772012-02-19T21:19:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:31:37.802-07:00Tanzania - Arusha Speedlight Workshop<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sunday 19.2 - After yesterday's highs during creative coating and printing workshop I had noticed that several of the participants were taking an interest in my use of speedlights to balance difficult lighting situations and decided to split the day into separate print and speedlight parts - starting with another attempt to create a custom profile for the Epson Enhanced Matte paper which had failed miserably on Saturday (too old software and a bug with my Mac).<br />
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Now armed with updated software we printed out the targets and rebuilt the color table with the spectrophotometer and tested. It was perfect. The shadow tones - not present in the standard Epson profile were now open and detailed and the color balance of the whole test image compared with the previous days attempts proved the need for good color management to the group.<br />
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Having made such a mess of the target reading the day before (a result of dividing the job between 4 people with tiles read inaccurately and an older version of the software that seemed to have problems on my Mac) I brought the target image into Photoshop and soft proofed the bad profile and good profile side by side to show them how easy it is to see if you have gone wrong - something I could have done before printing yesterday.<br />
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While waiting for the targets to dry we printed on the InkAid coated media and got excellent results!<br />
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As lunch time was approaching rapidly and my stomach was seriously rumbling from a 16 hour gap in organic input, I decided to set up the second session while the food was being prepared and leave the participants to it while I took a break.<br />
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With great good fortune I had managed to convince Laura (from Finland), and Seppo's wife Juliet to pose for us starting at 2 pm and they turned up on time with Juliet's sister Jackie. They had brought a change of wardrobe and the plan was to work in two different lighting situations - one inside and one outside.<br />
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For the inside scene we worked in the Rock Art Gallery with a plane cream white wall. With only 2 speedlights to work with it was going to be a challenge to get balanced lighting - but with a makeshift reflector (a white PVC sheet used as a support for the Japanese papers) I thought we stood a chance of getting something good out of the minimum amount of gear.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The basic setup with the white wall gelled to blue</td></tr>
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I wanted to turn the back wall from the rather boring off-white to a dark blue - for a bit of drama and used a deep colored gel and grid spot to throw the colour onto the wall. With the manual settings on the camera set to ISO 200, 125th sec. and F6.3 at I shot a few frames at the wall until the light gave a nice dark background and then with a chair about 2.5m from the wall put a small shoot-through umbrella above and right and very close to the model with the power down low to avoid spilling light onto the beautiful dark blue of the wall behind. It worked!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The deep blue background shot with a 580 EX and a gelled gridspot</td></tr>
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So, with my stomach now anticipating the thought of a visitor, I gave a brief talk on the theory of the set-up to the participants and as I had no light stands with me they could take turns as VOL's (voice activated light stands) and one VOR (voice activated reflector).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laura in silhouette before the key light </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIcgo8hEZihh7IoEuig6W7b7W_7TisJf4af6Fx5YkZWhvtng4nMduCp6EH2ONyBgW1E92tJcXqurXKDMb2-iR7ZZ1bxEN6ZrtlzIsCj7_6L0PmoDn1UIpTz7tSi46TjwA_9SK6FPt8QHL/s1600/_MG_4927.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIcgo8hEZihh7IoEuig6W7b7W_7TisJf4af6Fx5YkZWhvtng4nMduCp6EH2ONyBgW1E92tJcXqurXKDMb2-iR7ZZ1bxEN6ZrtlzIsCj7_6L0PmoDn1UIpTz7tSi46TjwA_9SK6FPt8QHL/s640/_MG_4927.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laura with a Lastolight softbox - later to be added a shoot through umbrella</td></tr>
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As I sat down outside in the shade to eat the thunder in my stomach evaporated into the skies above Mount Meru and I fully expected another power failure and wee bit of a monsoon - but nothing materialized and with the inside session complete we moved out into the grounds of the cafe for an ambient/speedlight mix.<br />
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The sun was jumping in and out of the clouds and and the hard and soft change of light was exactly the situation I wanted to work with. Here the idea was to find enough shade to avoid heavy shadows and then set up the camera to underexpose the background so we could use a key light and a fill to separate the model from the background and make her pop! I gave a few simple instructions with a short demonstration and then left them to it.<br />
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With around 40 frames each from the 2 sessions they got really great results. Its one thing to focus on the technique, get everything set up and balanced and then get the model to respond but somehow they did an amazing job.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6Mwpx_Trwb52IsjFVWz0rgDCrzeEBmQGMp3xrPV_d9wofxhbhKBSKjh4n7ECSDjfkfRYdON6nmZCvDNOGZmLLsnCPAXtQVa6CZkGYnP5lsy3_4ZrPPuMTafy0zQ-2VQiPWbv5Us-2usx/s1600/_MG_4985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6Mwpx_Trwb52IsjFVWz0rgDCrzeEBmQGMp3xrPV_d9wofxhbhKBSKjh4n7ECSDjfkfRYdON6nmZCvDNOGZmLLsnCPAXtQVa6CZkGYnP5lsy3_4ZrPPuMTafy0zQ-2VQiPWbv5Us-2usx/s640/_MG_4985.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel's mother and son shot (he has only ever used a phone camera before this)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMP-cREfO2Gc31Aj9C2RwkybD6FHn12CHXTLAsf-ayHqEK-IsLVVLFq8tksrYqipAO1YpoZBD8kUzHj8p90IoYCB-WCHqr2XELZyS97VrXL5dGOJ4aqOT_S2w6tdf2hjj3BFUJ2USDk_lp/s1600/20120219_untitled_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMP-cREfO2Gc31Aj9C2RwkybD6FHn12CHXTLAsf-ayHqEK-IsLVVLFq8tksrYqipAO1YpoZBD8kUzHj8p90IoYCB-WCHqr2XELZyS97VrXL5dGOJ4aqOT_S2w6tdf2hjj3BFUJ2USDk_lp/s640/20120219_untitled_0003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few BTS views with patient VOL's and little Ronnie keen to join in</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVT6gUvfWvYs_bBtIVDfMVIDFvmo7F7ftX568lvoohzAq8AFj6G5ieHG0gP5hAgjOEXGCj1pWqpfAQjRIIHiSYPmmAYrgaz-9QovSFura6rxLY_Sbwt1xTwfwGkf9tSO8JcNasMjLH5lY6/s1600/20120219_untitled_0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVT6gUvfWvYs_bBtIVDfMVIDFvmo7F7ftX568lvoohzAq8AFj6G5ieHG0gP5hAgjOEXGCj1pWqpfAQjRIIHiSYPmmAYrgaz-9QovSFura6rxLY_Sbwt1xTwfwGkf9tSO8JcNasMjLH5lY6/s640/20120219_untitled_0004.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ema Motta getting my take on the shoot (complete with a now full stomach)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk3snrP8xPyQwxsbXIcXWsxTwoutiCdjIEAsPYjprIvRqWGM69-qjM_4zruDByoAa_ZzyJCso4R22-80NNJN3ZoaE-PA2Mm9KzGcr9STQH_zQZU01xm82W4bB6tb6wnMw8jCdG_RDelKj2/s1600/20120219_untitled_0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk3snrP8xPyQwxsbXIcXWsxTwoutiCdjIEAsPYjprIvRqWGM69-qjM_4zruDByoAa_ZzyJCso4R22-80NNJN3ZoaE-PA2Mm9KzGcr9STQH_zQZU01xm82W4bB6tb6wnMw8jCdG_RDelKj2/s640/20120219_untitled_0006.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel Kichere with the shoot through and me behind with the key light</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg343XUpltrH_8EkYuMLk-4p4Il3nEx0m51ub-7-SVvnW_9whwdbRVvIFPYCHXUjGqGv449bm8jyMEE3GOSCRrY4iOm6iEcgDQs7lMHs5xsy5JEsDhPTZbUIeiR88RH_jVCBnJJyIjvtdFj/s1600/_MG_5093.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg343XUpltrH_8EkYuMLk-4p4Il3nEx0m51ub-7-SVvnW_9whwdbRVvIFPYCHXUjGqGv449bm8jyMEE3GOSCRrY4iOm6iEcgDQs7lMHs5xsy5JEsDhPTZbUIeiR88RH_jVCBnJJyIjvtdFj/s640/_MG_5093.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vernon's shot of the lovely Jackie against a background nicely exposed with the Land Rover and Tanzanian flag</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOSijfzWnSbQ5KCpln8J0nDAMfVwu-oltXr2NEkF_ffqyATE3OGlWF8W9-GLO7HfMTWl8ZiPaPOvrRYXllT0MlU9kSYHwPmqTRm1J-8br8QN77KlGVJ_N2SX56_ZOper4Tj1rnTHVwRVp/s1600/_MG_5123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOSijfzWnSbQ5KCpln8J0nDAMfVwu-oltXr2NEkF_ffqyATE3OGlWF8W9-GLO7HfMTWl8ZiPaPOvrRYXllT0MlU9kSYHwPmqTRm1J-8br8QN77KlGVJ_N2SX56_ZOper4Tj1rnTHVwRVp/s640/_MG_5123.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ema Motta's shot of Laura on the steps of the back kitchen</td></tr>
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Little Roni - 4 1/2 (5 on the 15th of June so he tells me) took a keen interest in the action and picked up his dad's little point and shoot to join in the fun. His concentration was astonishing. I watched him for a few minutes standing there with his arms outstretched framing up the shot - and as each of the participants arranged their model and started to shoot he would press the shutter as soon as he heard the Canon 5D mkII shutter release next to him.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuXU3W-pKURUcpYAQNsUPHOmTGMNGbIZ1Gwn2pAFX3zr-ulTSuXdyXQHUO_Rx9IyeYX8KH0F310iOEL8g6T64X-5JTkiISIEFHRiz_c1Ys6qqF5j-vBisNttbP7HIi9ia6O7ne9_S7FjaI/s1600/Ronis+Picture-30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuXU3W-pKURUcpYAQNsUPHOmTGMNGbIZ1Gwn2pAFX3zr-ulTSuXdyXQHUO_Rx9IyeYX8KH0F310iOEL8g6T64X-5JTkiISIEFHRiz_c1Ys6qqF5j-vBisNttbP7HIi9ia6O7ne9_S7FjaI/s640/Ronis+Picture-30.jpg" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Roni's (4 going on 5) shot of Jackie without lights using Seppo's point and shoot!</td></tr>
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We wrapped the shoot up soon after 5pm and went back inside to download and develop. Lightroom is the best. I explained a little about cataloguing and keyboarding so that each could easily find their own shots and they selected one to develop and print. With me at the controls and a seriously efficient workflow we had the images tweaked for print at at 5:55 pm printed out the shots on the Epson 9900. <br />
<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-12885976891239931362012-02-18T22:40:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:31:25.338-07:00Tanzania - Creative Print Workshop<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Presentations evening 17.2 - On Friday night we got together at the Arusha Masai Cafe for an evening of presentations. With about 9 people registered for the workshop only 4 turned up but it was a great evening of presenting each other's works on the projector. None of the participants are professionals but there were some amazing photographs to be seen. No power cuts - a rare thing in these parts and the discussions continued until around 10pm.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRlT8uIoT6SD1oFKHSlSKVUKgjTNQupucOsmOy70LOB8-ACxn0qaO1Z0c0K-AtBOZMoOCdO-jn_yKCdVh7wRYER6MgfTgJ6zM8Ue-_dkBtx_Y-rmxl6GJtCkWMxbpRTjH7TzJClD8Ak4J/s1600/20120218_workshop_0031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRlT8uIoT6SD1oFKHSlSKVUKgjTNQupucOsmOy70LOB8-ACxn0qaO1Z0c0K-AtBOZMoOCdO-jn_yKCdVh7wRYER6MgfTgJ6zM8Ue-_dkBtx_Y-rmxl6GJtCkWMxbpRTjH7TzJClD8Ak4J/s640/20120218_workshop_0031.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vernon with my catalogue</td></tr>
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Colour, Print, Profiles and Coatings 18.2 - Saturday morning we started with the colour management - calibrating all the laptop monitors they had and showing them how important it is to have a balanced display using the Datacolor Spyder Elite. Thanks to Sami Eskonlahti from Suomen Interfoto in Finland and Datacolor for their support in the project!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXrUr-6WnYk7XSVDgNyKeh12afMZw_jUUiLIfOeYFobHe9WocgFIBvE5LrBkUYyoH7bUnJcucfu_SqlOMQwzfPezYpy8H8JsAtsvhoidzIyFnTOAa8RjT8JqoSWmQNhTT-U0q2N83GZU7k/s1600/20120218_workshop_0033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXrUr-6WnYk7XSVDgNyKeh12afMZw_jUUiLIfOeYFobHe9WocgFIBvE5LrBkUYyoH7bUnJcucfu_SqlOMQwzfPezYpy8H8JsAtsvhoidzIyFnTOAa8RjT8JqoSWmQNhTT-U0q2N83GZU7k/s640/20120218_workshop_0033.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then we moved on to building custom profiles - had some difficulty with the older version of the software on my Mac and downloaded an update for tomorrow's session. Still, printing through Qimage with different profiles they got an idea how important it is to have a correct profile to get a good result.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64ZdFAPDaqVaFGjjidCPJUb942CC4F-Mrqp2XgC-5P4PZCVKzV-MjfUDq2GFATIuS8ItoTRAIEUYUaYEb0Rfac-aakUWTgQ_9dY7nNcQlZxb6We-k9s3YUhNbwRJJCCd6RsxQ3b1Ak0lG/s1600/20120218_workshop_0045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64ZdFAPDaqVaFGjjidCPJUb942CC4F-Mrqp2XgC-5P4PZCVKzV-MjfUDq2GFATIuS8ItoTRAIEUYUaYEb0Rfac-aakUWTgQ_9dY7nNcQlZxb6We-k9s3YUhNbwRJJCCd6RsxQ3b1Ak0lG/s640/20120218_workshop_0045.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Profiling monitors</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfesk8KaqHVwJg58-QK1sZl0i1JIw-poOKZBtn_ZlwPzT3VBScGcfEZAUNTs7xjKAhYwFBI5nbK_9Tj57uhn0gReANgK8_tvHQR0cBwmDnmc_CsQxB9BZTkY15tWiX1ptboVtLraKNIeyv/s1600/20120218_workshop_0050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfesk8KaqHVwJg58-QK1sZl0i1JIw-poOKZBtn_ZlwPzT3VBScGcfEZAUNTs7xjKAhYwFBI5nbK_9Tj57uhn0gReANgK8_tvHQR0cBwmDnmc_CsQxB9BZTkY15tWiX1ptboVtLraKNIeyv/s640/20120218_workshop_0050.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reading the target with the Datacolor hardware</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfQbBdDB2zTZ6KMvves6pkU1AXd0Pw0jISCAPdb6ioFLjIoxeABWzS30nyHQ82iRz1Kv6fbSaVccvB2ogLD5kKTdrCPgkJHMC2N9G8L9DyZHJR0aIEv16HNbKAbEaToQHHj0W2YZ-Qa0b/s1600/20120218_workshop_0054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfQbBdDB2zTZ6KMvves6pkU1AXd0Pw0jISCAPdb6ioFLjIoxeABWzS30nyHQ82iRz1Kv6fbSaVccvB2ogLD5kKTdrCPgkJHMC2N9G8L9DyZHJR0aIEv16HNbKAbEaToQHHj0W2YZ-Qa0b/s640/20120218_workshop_0054.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reading the target for profiling</td></tr>
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Next we moved on to hand coating - thanks to support from InkAid we had a variety of coatings for the locally made hand made papers, Japanese papers and Tyvek I brought from home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1IQOTAuYk9Q7MdxD2DC23poxMHSbhje-C6DTOGLbMO-XGPkNxV0oIVI_yVKECLiYMrOnvgKQY-AAgvoY0-8PZ9GSERdWN67MmKGLqXH4ieuREiNf2g61cYrs3HDuSKsLrp8uiifIU4Wob/s1600/20120218_workshop_0064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1IQOTAuYk9Q7MdxD2DC23poxMHSbhje-C6DTOGLbMO-XGPkNxV0oIVI_yVKECLiYMrOnvgKQY-AAgvoY0-8PZ9GSERdWN67MmKGLqXH4ieuREiNf2g61cYrs3HDuSKsLrp8uiifIU4Wob/s640/20120218_workshop_0064.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel Kichere applying gelatin to Washi paper on a support sheet</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel coating Japanese paper</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj420MNuNUwR4i31_EgWkdvbE2njv63f5LtQ1J-A1Gw1zUlWIpOGLg9i_mD_F76hlMw4dcijxZcIJX10y4AH-EidCN0GHupdacjyn-jDCHfYto64LdR3wDqBbtoXPKWuwUrjOA9yGwpXp_m/s1600/20120218_workshop_0084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj420MNuNUwR4i31_EgWkdvbE2njv63f5LtQ1J-A1Gw1zUlWIpOGLg9i_mD_F76hlMw4dcijxZcIJX10y4AH-EidCN0GHupdacjyn-jDCHfYto64LdR3wDqBbtoXPKWuwUrjOA9yGwpXp_m/s640/20120218_workshop_0084.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">InkAid coating on Tyvek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uVQV-HH_W-jsl56WjN_FNRoarfGrVtzMdW0_tD9WAKk8-YRMbTp4FU-XonIOuJ9e4kz5sLiEWBW4tUkWYSepF7g_XmiJaT8ebjLYpTMafT5GafRHQS_xkxBSUb5hz0spavLIMVLx8sbd/s1600/20120218_workshop_0090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0uVQV-HH_W-jsl56WjN_FNRoarfGrVtzMdW0_tD9WAKk8-YRMbTp4FU-XonIOuJ9e4kz5sLiEWBW4tUkWYSepF7g_XmiJaT8ebjLYpTMafT5GafRHQS_xkxBSUb5hz0spavLIMVLx8sbd/s640/20120218_workshop_0090.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The outdoor studio</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBaSnoD48cp57QZxFMFepc6LxkOcjr-27Oz0VSHBWw_sw4Argvffys9buPCC_Pt3Uwmi5NzYtuAKFbG7xIg45uMStf3ZrbKEanSvthwYSE7proG_kgE5QHjQRh5rXbpRvuK-CqOB85geJi/s1600/20120218_workshop_0098.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBaSnoD48cp57QZxFMFepc6LxkOcjr-27Oz0VSHBWw_sw4Argvffys9buPCC_Pt3Uwmi5NzYtuAKFbG7xIg45uMStf3ZrbKEanSvthwYSE7proG_kgE5QHjQRh5rXbpRvuK-CqOB85geJi/s640/20120218_workshop_0098.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Add caption</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIuT-I8roh7Hg-2BY12OjnMoCHKMPJ-i8qSvGttC7OqxcF-xJ7P-dMyeKeQMyobphFQ0l-foS3yT_k43yRyKNAIkwR0jQZ6BCo6F-e5QkOnInM3HUa3JZn8TJpr7bCg0NoHsU-ds6Ak1iQ/s1600/20120218_workshop_0103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIuT-I8roh7Hg-2BY12OjnMoCHKMPJ-i8qSvGttC7OqxcF-xJ7P-dMyeKeQMyobphFQ0l-foS3yT_k43yRyKNAIkwR0jQZ6BCo6F-e5QkOnInM3HUa3JZn8TJpr7bCg0NoHsU-ds6Ak1iQ/s640/20120218_workshop_0103.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel Kichere coating with InkAid</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjEbYFiK8qBARMsT7zuhrn4BCooL9ivMSk2-170ZJkEhGYasACroYVrpSXxYWnhCa876cO2b9qhPrgGTnGF0vLOBhJSQ6ohyphenhyphen_jJfgtXJLZnN4lmHgD0JzlzXCz975doDwwH0sEEnu0Kv8/s1600/20120218_workshop_0107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjEbYFiK8qBARMsT7zuhrn4BCooL9ivMSk2-170ZJkEhGYasACroYVrpSXxYWnhCa876cO2b9qhPrgGTnGF0vLOBhJSQ6ohyphenhyphen_jJfgtXJLZnN4lmHgD0JzlzXCz975doDwwH0sEEnu0Kv8/s640/20120218_workshop_0107.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Torrential rain and a power cut lasted throughout the afternoon just when we didn't need electricity and came back on when the coatings were dry so that we got all the Japanese papers printed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Y_vtakEYkL7hyV8ibIrpti9P8eoedU-WswMG_z7FC5DuYVTCG805TAg2fDshpR65LuFhZk3c2O0oXEJZbzDFEN-tpl-3_KTSgVraeUZgIJcRzHrwHJsiGl6D04qPK5NMD_dObWgBWD8I/s1600/20120218_workshop_0140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Y_vtakEYkL7hyV8ibIrpti9P8eoedU-WswMG_z7FC5DuYVTCG805TAg2fDshpR65LuFhZk3c2O0oXEJZbzDFEN-tpl-3_KTSgVraeUZgIJcRzHrwHJsiGl6D04qPK5NMD_dObWgBWD8I/s640/20120218_workshop_0140.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy printers!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPFV0lquc_bsetlBnDDj5f-JpBVYzg01ZM8zGg4J9WOVMBTpm2_yyth4Fu0EeEJGQqcry77Z-NOY0bACQl1S9Rlhr4ysKjkaJw6MO0p3YC7GYty3pYyI-1u1r2pLV9QQbRadlFyS2EWDHq/s1600/20120218_workshop_0143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPFV0lquc_bsetlBnDDj5f-JpBVYzg01ZM8zGg4J9WOVMBTpm2_yyth4Fu0EeEJGQqcry77Z-NOY0bACQl1S9Rlhr4ysKjkaJw6MO0p3YC7GYty3pYyI-1u1r2pLV9QQbRadlFyS2EWDHq/s640/20120218_workshop_0143.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel Kichere preparing files to print</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifG7lWrw3h31mIzjLzGAYbo2TjcNF2vb30RS_eL7pFoiUyU0AoaANMsTnTXYVBQy4cx5MMqaM-TpT6ME3WdQULwzFiXlSvMdTIPJE7YP6Eqo73pShaD-TGhJrAbtOrrsSKtiZ-V0tQlOUo/s1600/20120218_workshop_0154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifG7lWrw3h31mIzjLzGAYbo2TjcNF2vb30RS_eL7pFoiUyU0AoaANMsTnTXYVBQy4cx5MMqaM-TpT6ME3WdQULwzFiXlSvMdTIPJE7YP6Eqo73pShaD-TGhJrAbtOrrsSKtiZ-V0tQlOUo/s640/20120218_workshop_0154.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vernon's print</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEIW0zoBeYwTrJnWicejtpSVqvGB1zfgmlIWameLasIckTRDPk1wOzsl8NWVb1AM5l6gxNRubBJHmSQ2EYZR75crP59AWFT12tVT2yoGE7d_PNFPbSXWqsbYVWTkTCLIrvMME03kDmueI/s1600/20120218_workshop_0157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEIW0zoBeYwTrJnWicejtpSVqvGB1zfgmlIWameLasIckTRDPk1wOzsl8NWVb1AM5l6gxNRubBJHmSQ2EYZR75crP59AWFT12tVT2yoGE7d_PNFPbSXWqsbYVWTkTCLIrvMME03kDmueI/s640/20120218_workshop_0157.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel Kichere's print of buffalo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp7HRimzznNdymQqp58RcO_RBOO5lWxbGl1FTPsu-txhqvYjS9DdOGNuJ3K_raLcavRVKICa7tMSW6H0Z_i95G6uEnPGI3do1q3c3TYZNo5uXAhjKoOcxPyNME5g8wyvzxyOk1bHCClfu5/s1600/20120218_workshop_0138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp7HRimzznNdymQqp58RcO_RBOO5lWxbGl1FTPsu-txhqvYjS9DdOGNuJ3K_raLcavRVKICa7tMSW6H0Z_i95G6uEnPGI3do1q3c3TYZNo5uXAhjKoOcxPyNME5g8wyvzxyOk1bHCClfu5/s640/20120218_workshop_0138.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emmanuel's Washi paper print</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg376bEkVxmD5qbSumNkqVjuatbiEOSwsUF58PCgklRY6unuZ_EHqwj4SWdI4DL-FLwN1jaNz0dlMJqVyCqHTPvhu0adFNTKAYc_b7Wx9DvIKEGEkQ7GHeYyXRjaXwmLC6meD5-lJpiuhTb/s1600/20120218_workshop_0158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg376bEkVxmD5qbSumNkqVjuatbiEOSwsUF58PCgklRY6unuZ_EHqwj4SWdI4DL-FLwN1jaNz0dlMJqVyCqHTPvhu0adFNTKAYc_b7Wx9DvIKEGEkQ7GHeYyXRjaXwmLC6meD5-lJpiuhTb/s640/20120218_workshop_0158.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vernon and his print on Washi paper</td></tr>
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Great to have an enthusiastic bunch to work with - inspired choice of prints and fast learners! At the end of the day I could more or less leave them on their own to set up the prints on the Epson 9900. <br />
<br /></div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7902629523511165835.post-88346188697729492182012-02-15T21:09:00.000-08:002012-06-29T00:31:09.740-07:00Tanzania - The Kolo Rock Art Site<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Rock Art Site Day 2 - 12.2 - I managed to get up early enough at the campsite to photograph a panorama of the view across the hills. It was an amazing morning, but then again most mornings out here are.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDFUnC5FNKm_37f3z-g41PjYs4iUO1XtTvYLsYD2qGt2KW3QMLhNqGJzy6ZLCNZq1X-VHF2NkqUY9Q_yt152oDOkvBGvIPiefHQNnQWZusYCqT2Dov-oOwZ29iIHhwVoXN4Nn8Mp9FiyJb/s1600/_DSC7347-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDFUnC5FNKm_37f3z-g41PjYs4iUO1XtTvYLsYD2qGt2KW3QMLhNqGJzy6ZLCNZq1X-VHF2NkqUY9Q_yt152oDOkvBGvIPiefHQNnQWZusYCqT2Dov-oOwZ29iIHhwVoXN4Nn8Mp9FiyJb/s640/_DSC7347-Edit.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of sunrise at the Amarula Campsite</td></tr>
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We drove to meet our guide Rawa Ramadhani who will take us to the Kolo site. As we climbed the steep slopes to the rock face through dense brush, I caught a glimpse of the enormous valley that lay below. With the sun just barely up and a slightly cloudy sky the view was stunning. The small villages with their low level houses could not be seen at all from here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYQ1fMFIXgfXG_aZ7KEwCJ5OL-JnV5EtF-kZNWO6NyuxmwlRhSZrl3X3-gtuDjThHRBwV0JrTlLvwfxQ-zDVNwS283RzYeOGNYW8UWmHbPqq439EKcBvBWKe_U4cdlQxZ7xWrZljzaHyJ/s1600/_DSC7363-Edit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYQ1fMFIXgfXG_aZ7KEwCJ5OL-JnV5EtF-kZNWO6NyuxmwlRhSZrl3X3-gtuDjThHRBwV0JrTlLvwfxQ-zDVNwS283RzYeOGNYW8UWmHbPqq439EKcBvBWKe_U4cdlQxZ7xWrZljzaHyJ/s640/_DSC7363-Edit.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama from the Kolo Rock Art Site</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgG0AF_hCqLOKf-5GeeDsItQjAymzhCynlqRh4DcG_423wUSblOIq57SqZbwWaPG9eJU2UlSvVNlNHsAbNRX8uyJh0hmaewJ1LB32YzzzFhyphenhyphenBcmEzgtYGIoiM0sX0d2uh50k9osoK7qgK/s1600/_MG_3618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkgG0AF_hCqLOKf-5GeeDsItQjAymzhCynlqRh4DcG_423wUSblOIq57SqZbwWaPG9eJU2UlSvVNlNHsAbNRX8uyJh0hmaewJ1LB32YzzzFhyphenhyphenBcmEzgtYGIoiM0sX0d2uh50k9osoK7qgK/s640/_MG_3618.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our guide Rawa, Clive and Seppo</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWBUS7c213CL3mCvujnTpaHT0XDtn8LXOR1_4Jg4E0_QNBw3JQIpbPBizahudKBTApsYrCI9cqKfsw_0KevA7ztEKUzKG_y0XEqE1edjimV_64j7gAyPGN70xcy5vudwZfkM2FHXogUJPV/s1600/_MG_3620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWBUS7c213CL3mCvujnTpaHT0XDtn8LXOR1_4Jg4E0_QNBw3JQIpbPBizahudKBTApsYrCI9cqKfsw_0KevA7ztEKUzKG_y0XEqE1edjimV_64j7gAyPGN70xcy5vudwZfkM2FHXogUJPV/s640/_MG_3620.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgprkSazx3eTRyHJJVFyBgkWgcwbq1pMccLeTditsTWoqsDL3ElSpkbZc4TuaQ8WSwpoeJDaDMairnP8HdS3PxKmPN8sWR3yRpydkiDnNHedXWyKl1BsWedI5mjrgCOazuE3qWK7GH7z_eG/s1600/_MG_3623.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgprkSazx3eTRyHJJVFyBgkWgcwbq1pMccLeTditsTWoqsDL3ElSpkbZc4TuaQ8WSwpoeJDaDMairnP8HdS3PxKmPN8sWR3yRpydkiDnNHedXWyKl1BsWedI5mjrgCOazuE3qWK7GH7z_eG/s640/_MG_3623.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaGvDgDsxZIm8AeB9iQ_VIlc0Yy76AzYGFCwiL9ihavS3AOmK3i6oDpULLIrl32ucA69-yvt1rNIqSoGki6lyCZlremVFBwxeFvWaRKvihhyCdqowFGJJMZzPDN2X6RzBtHV59lIXSoRCY/s1600/_MG_3642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaGvDgDsxZIm8AeB9iQ_VIlc0Yy76AzYGFCwiL9ihavS3AOmK3i6oDpULLIrl32ucA69-yvt1rNIqSoGki6lyCZlremVFBwxeFvWaRKvihhyCdqowFGJJMZzPDN2X6RzBtHV59lIXSoRCY/s640/_MG_3642.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clive Justice photographing the rock</td></tr>
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</div>Gary Wornellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09033216022769181878noreply@blogger.com1